You're not sure about what? Water chillers ARE more efficient but that is irrelevant to my question. What I mean is that I wonder if there is any differences in the design of the heat exchangers themselves due to their intended purpose, IOW one is trying to cool the liquids running through them cooled by the air running over the exchanger, the other is meant to have cooled liquids run through them to accept the heat from the surrounding air.

Now that I think about it, any heat exchanger should be able to work in either direction.

http://www.aqualogicinc.com/products...er-Chiller.htm

The liquid cooled lights only control the heat output from the light itself. A heat exchanger in a tent will cool the whole tent, hopefully eliminating my need for a/c in the summer.

Think about a situation like mine where the tent is in a non-a/c area of my house. I can vent all day long but if the surrounding air temp is in the high 80's, I cannot cool the inside of the tent below that, even with a liquid cooled light. I need complete cooling inside my tent.

How big is your tent? Most are small enough that a decent portable A/C unit would be more than enough to keep the temps in the 70s...

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Join the Liquid Cooled Revolution.

I did mention I already run a/c didn't I? I'm trying to see if I can go without. We've already established that it is more efficient to cool water than air. I will be using just a fraction of the power to cool the res to 65° than it currently takes to cool the air to 78°F.

Another advantage is that I will regain the space that the portable a/c takes up. But the biggest advantage is that I can safely run co2 without losing any of it. All portable a/c, even the dual hose units will vent and waste co2. The best a/c would be a mini split but I would need to hire someone to install it and they are expensive and are still not as efficient as a water-cooled heat exchanger.

The great thing about this method of cooling is it cools the light and the whole room. Mainly because the air coming through the fan is still cool even after going through the reflector. Check out Hydro Innovations videos on YouTube they explain the whole process real well. Here is a link.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0uRrMvfucY

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I just grow tomatoes but their website sucks so here I am.

just my kinda thread

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da fuck?

I got my ballast today, will be doing my tests in the next couple days. I didnt really think off it before, but I have a 30 gallon reservoir outside my grow room. I will fill it and run a pump on it recirculating to see if the water will cool off enough when the lights are off to cool them when they are on.

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I just grow tomatoes but their website sucks so here I am.

I have everything hooked up and tested it out, it worked very well. My grow room is 3' x 4' x 7 1/2' and completely sealed. It was 72 degree's with everything off starting out. Using city water which is about 65 degree's, I turned on my 600W HPS and the water, it went up to 80 degree's and held. Then I turned the water off and in a half hour it was already up to 99 degree's, it would have gotten even hotter if I let it keep going. It really will require a chiller and reservoir to use permanetly.

Attached Images

	Homemade Icebox..jpg (27.2 KB, 42 views)
	Homemade Icebox hooked up..jpg (18.0 KB, 56 views)
	Homemade Icebox Connected..jpg (19.0 KB, 46 views)

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I just grow tomatoes but their website sucks so here I am.

Actually part of this is wrong jberry caught it in another thread and pointed it out. You can only have the Icebox on the exhaust side of the reflector to avoid any condesation from splashing on you bulb which would cause it to explode. A big thanks to jberry!

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I just grow tomatoes but their website sucks so here I am.

yeah, it was my set-up he mentioned when he caught the mistake...+ rep

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You Cant't Die If You Haven't Lived!!