its actualy a closest grow i was just saying i have an atic above it so i can get acess to the crowl space if needed witch whould be above the grow room but yea i see what u mean im just lookin for somthing right now i got ac with door cracked like 1 to 2 feet open when im here with ac on staying around 70-80 when open and about 90 to 100 closed on hot day i got one small fan monted on wall now i was going to go buy some them 1900 min cfl to add like 4 more them and call it good

Access to an attic would be a good thing. You could even use a bathroom vent fan mounted in the ceiling for exhaust, Just be sure to have the end going outside, don't just dump it in the attic. Anything you can do to keep the heat and humidity levels in balance will be a plus. VV

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well its 8 foot by 4.2 foot across by 1.2 foot
how many cfm u think i would need im geting into atic tomarrow see what kind area i got to work with i was going to do some form of exh fan and add atic fan to drop vent outside with some from carbin fliter on there

Just multiply length x width x height. Almost any fan would have that capacity. Let me tell you about my exhaust. At the time, I could not afford a canfan and carbon filter. I knew it was important, just couldn't afford it. I do have an attic space over my house, so I cut a hole in the ceiling and bought a diffuser, about $10.00 at the big box stores, attached about 20' of 8" duct line, I used the insulated flexible duct, and installed a 8" in-line duct booster I bought at Menards for less than $30.00. Shoved the open end in one of the roof hats, they are there to vent your attic. The 8" DuctBooster is rated at 500cfm, across that length it is probably about 3/5 of that or a convineint 300cfm. My room is 10 x 8 x 14, a little over 1100 cuft. and I want the air exchanged every 3 to 5 minutes.
See, there are not many people walking around sniffing the air at the peak of my roof, so I can use a cheap fan, larger diameter is better, and exhaust it were no one can smell it anyway.
The intake and exhaust do not have as much to do with temperature as some folks think though, whatever the 'ambient' air temperature is will be the temperature of the air you intake. When its 80 degrees out, the air I am in-taking is already 80 degrees, that is before you add the lights. As you have pointed out even floros can change that by as much as 20 degrees. That is why I posted this thread about air cooling the lights. There are no short cuts, you must have all of the parts of a good air handling system, whether it is a box or a house, seal it up so you have a 'controlled environment', then install the system necessary to keep your controlled environment ideal for what you put in the environment.
The only difference between what your plants need, and what you need is you breath oxygen, and they breath carbon dioxide, and they can't move. If it was 80 degrees or more, with 70% relative humidity and no breeze, would you stay in the room?? VV

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yea i think i can porb do that im waitin on a frined mine get here i just went and got 2 clamp light and 4 1700 lum 6500 datlight crl to add with reflecters cuz my end plants anit getin as much light and i got 2 get 2 more i think it shound help me out too ;0 thanks i do think im going try that your talking abuot like dryer vent duction anit u flexable shit

so the rooms 46 in across and 86 inch high and and 20 in wall to fram of the door i went got 4 23 w 65k daylight that `1600 lums each add them into the mix hopefuly that help so i shound be around 12k

all you really need 2 do is cut floor vents in your room(if in a house with foundation) and have and exhaust fan that will exchange the air. the air under your house is nice and cool and al ways fesh becuase air is always being replaced. my grow is currently on cement so i will have a duct booster with a air sock. that turn s on when temps get 2 high. 4 inch vortex exhast(8x8x that will be hooked up 2 a grozilla reflector on the other flange will be a carbon scrubber. exaust fan will be on full time 2 recirculate the rooms air im also using a 4 ft light rail. any thoughts on ducting thats movable?

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LetHerBurn

Well, yes. The flexible aluminum is somewhat more mobil than the insulated duct I am using and the clamps do hold it better. If you use bungie straps to hold it up, you can move it a little with out disturbing the system.
I am not a fan of light movers. VV

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yes i c i want the ducting to move with the light. light movers create more growing space even growth and can save you money in some grow applications

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LetHerBurn

great thread!...

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