How to Use an Industrial Low Bay Light Fixture?

**smoke and coke** · 02-22-2009, 08:24 PM

HOW TO USE AN INDUSTRIAL LOW BAY FIXTURE

The industrial/commercial H.I.D. lighting fixture can be an inexpensive way to light your grow room.
Some people may have purchased one in particular from e-bay. The GENLYTE PP400LXJ-4 power pack a.k.a. CRESCENT LIGHT FIXTURE, therefore for most of this show, ill be using this light as a model. But also showing a few select pictures from different lights. Most of these type fixtures will be similar. This is a 400 watt HPS LOW BAY fixture.

CHAPTER 1
PART 1

THE INPUT VOLTAGE SELECTION
If your light can be wired for different input voltages then it is called multi-tap.

Material needed
1-small wire nut
1-125 volt 15 amp 3 prong male plug
Tools needed
Small Phillips and or small straight blade screwdriver
Straight blade screwdriver
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Utility knife of sharp knife
Gloves
Safty glasses

We will be wiring the light for 120 volts. The power pack assembly consists of the ballast components, ballast housing and the lamp holder (socket). In the top portion of the light is where you can access the wires for the input voltage selection. While handling the light use care not to drop it. Lay the light on its side so the top silver cover is facing up. Remove the 2 screws and the cover. Gently pull the wires out so you can get to the wire connections. You will have to feed the black power cord up inside a little for easier access .

The GENLYTE fixture comes pre-wired for 277 volts. So lets take note of the wire. We have the green ground connected to the case of the light. The white from the cord is connected to the white or common or com. of the light. These 2 connections are good to go, just give the wire nut on the white a little twist to make sure it is tight. The rest of the wires to the light will be the voltage selector. On the side of each of the wires it will be printed the voltage it is. The black is connected to the 277 so we need to unhook it. Find the wire from the light marked 120 and connect it to the black wire from the cord using a wire nut. Use your cutters and cut off the exposed wire on the 277 wire and put a wire nut on the end to protect it.

Now carefully tuck the wires back inside and pulling the cord back out through the hanger. Install the cover with the screws. A longer cord may be needed, just install the way as described above.

PART2
INSTALLING A NEW PLUG

The GENLYTE fixture has a 277 volt plug on the end. Cut off the plug as close as you can. Use a knife and very carefully strip the outer covering off the end of the cable. Take your time, no need to go to the emergency room. wear a glove if needed. I bend the end of the cable over a couple inches and gently cut into the outer covering. Do not force it, as you cut the rubber will snap apart because your bending it sharply. This prevents cutting into the wires. Work it all the way around.

Now cut the wires off to about 1 inch long, this depends on your new plug. Its easier to remove 3 inches of the covering than trying to remove 1 inch. Take your 120 volt plug and take it apart. This is where the small screwdriver is needed.

Strip the ends of the wires about ½ inch. Put the green wire under the green screw and tighten. The white under the silver screw and the black under the gold screw. Put your plug back together. Take care not to crimp the wire to tight when putting the plug back together. I had to shave the plastic down due to my wire is a little to large.

Now hang the fixture by a secure hook (very important) and install a 400 watt hps mogule base bulb. Plug in and test. Whenever working around an HID fixture that does not have a fully enclosed reflector, I wear safety glasses. I have seen bulbs blow and I feel safer using them. I wear them when I am just sitting in there watching the girls grow.

If you have an extension cord that is either 14 gauge or 12 gauge wire, then you can cut off the length you need and replace the whole cord that comes with the GENLYTE fixture. This will also save a step in changing the plug.
I am not going to go into installing the refractor that came with the light at this time because I may not be using it. If anyone needs help with it let me know.

stay tuned still to come chapter 2
a sneak peak we will be making the genlyte ballast remote.

**captain chronizzle** · 02-22-2009, 08:51 PM

totally cool, can't wait for the next lesson. i see shop lights disappearing nation wide. i've seen those same fixtures sitting in piles. companies go to flouro to save some dollas and the electricians ( or light companies) doing the swaps, really don't know what to do wit em. last time i seen some electrical contractors doing a swap, i dropped a bug in their ear. i also see lighting contractors selling their converted cast-offs on ebay. you can get a decent 400watter for like $115 wit shipping. way to go!!!!!!!!

**smoke and coke** · 02-22-2009, 08:56 PM

Originally Posted by captain chronizzle

totally cool, can't wait for the next lesson. i see shop lights disappearing nation wide. i've seen those same fixtures sitting in piles. companies go to flouro to save some dollas and the electricians ( or light companies) doing the swaps, really don't know what to do wit em. last time i seen some electrical contractors doing a swap, i dropped a bug in their ear. i also see lighting contractors selling their converted cast-offs on ebay. you can get a decent 400watter for like $115 wit shipping. way to go!!!!!!!!

hey check out my thread on getting one of these fixtures for under 50 bucks including shipping to the states anyway.
do you need a 400w hps?

**captain chronizzle** · 02-22-2009, 09:17 PM

thats a sweet deal! i run digital ballasts for the simple fact that they are really only juicing my powerbill hard the first three minutes of start-up. magnetic ballast would be alright if i was starting out from scratch, due to the cost overall vs. savings. imo someone could have a sweet garden with a very low start-up cost. i also really dig the fact that these lights are being recycled, or put to use, rather than melted down or landfilled.

**smoke and coke** · 02-22-2009, 09:20 PM

Originally Posted by captain chronizzle

thats a sweet deal! i run digital ballasts for the simple fact that they are really only juicing my powerbill hard the first three minutes of start-up. magnetic ballast would be alright if i was starting out from scratch, due to the cost overall vs. savings. imo someone could have a sweet garden with a very low start-up cost. i also really dig the fact that these lights are being recycled, or put to use, rather than melted down or landfilled.

yes i agree totally. but that sweet deal for the 400w on ebay are brand new lights.

**DaveTheNewbie** · 02-22-2009, 10:23 PM

ok so thats how to rewire it
i was hoping for how to pull it apart so that the ballast is outside the grow room but the globe is inside
any suggestions on that one ?

**clOsEtfrEAk** · 02-22-2009, 10:34 PM

yea you could do that, just cut the socket out, and some wire between the two and voila!

**smoke and coke** · 02-23-2009, 04:32 AM

Originally Posted by DaveTheNewbie

ok so thats how to rewire it
i was hoping for how to pull it apart so that the ballast is outside the grow room but the globe is inside
any suggestions on that one ?

im working on chapter 2 making the ballast remote. hoping to have it posted by this coming weekend.

**Schmarmpit** · 02-23-2009, 08:01 AM

Great stuff smoke and coke! I appreciate the work you're putting into this. This is as good of a deal, if not better, then the now defunct 150W e-conolights. I will be making mine remote so keep the tutorials coming.

**smoke and coke** · 02-23-2009, 01:42 PM

Originally Posted by Schmarmpit

Great stuff smoke and coke! I appreciate the work you're putting into this. This is as good of a deal, if not better, then the now defunct 150W e-conolights. I will be making mine remote so keep the tutorials coming.

why thanks for the appreciation, its my pleasure.
i will do my best. how soon do you plan on using the light? you will probly get it by today or tomorrow. by this weekend i will have chapter 2 done. chapter 3 will be using the socket. i got to make cooltubes yet. so i will do my best to help get you up and running.