Is there any hard proof that 2700K bulbs are better for flowering than 6500K bulbs? I can understand the logic behind using them, but is there anyone who has experimented with this?

I mostly just don't want to go out and buy 8 x 42W 2700K bulbs

i am using cfl right now . i started out using 6500k for veg at about 6 weeks . for a joke i threw in a couple of 26w 2700k, they just happen to be laying around the more lumens the better right . well anyway , right away after adding the 2700k my plants went into overdrive on the growth .within a week they were showing preflowers 5 out of 8 were female the other 3 got balls and the chop.one of them got the lst and has about 18 acorn sized buds at 12 days into flowering. i have searched this site and cant find a whole lot of anything that is bigger at 12 days with out hid lights . i am convinced , maybe i try to get some pics up ?

__________________
i only grow tomatoes , but hang out here because tomatoe forums suck

Yes . you would know that if you did any search whatsoever. of course you need 2700k bulbs unless you want little fluffy colas. follow this site and read the faq. youll get it.

__________________

You clearly don't understand my question.

I have been a member of this community for quite some time and understand the "search function", the FAQ, and all general guidelines on growing plants in general! HOWEVER, what I am asking is there somewhere comparing a plant grown with a 6500K bulb(s) and a plant grown with 2700K bulb(s). Sure, theres a boatload of people spewing that 2700K bulbs work better for flowering...but is there any PROOF.

Get it together.

610 - 720 nm or 2700k light This is the red band. Large amount of absorption by chlorophyll occurs, and most significant influence on photosynthesis. (promotes flowering and budding)

All the proof you need is the fact that you want to recreate, as closely as possible, the natural conditions of your plants life cycle. We can manipulate this to a certain degree through extending our "days", whether it be 24 on with no dark, or 18/6 which I prefer because all plants need some time to rest. Now the next thing that comes into consideration is the maturing of the plant, once put into flower your plants hormones are affected, creating a chemical change in the plant in preparation for procreation before its death. In nature, this is caused by the shortening of days as well as a difference in the spectrum of light that plants are receiving from the sun. Thats what these light spectrum's are derived from (2300k to 6700k) with the middle ground being mostly useless due to it being representative of the transition of the grow season into the flowering season. Thats why we, being able to manipulate, go straight to the best spectrum's to receive the best results for the full amount of available time. Increasing your plants potential, and giving it a chance to fulfill its genetic code.
I tried to put this as easily understandable as possible. Hope it helps. If you were looking for a more detailed explanation, with sources, then I wish you luck finding someone who's a more motivated pot head then I. LOL

__________________
My last grow-Bagseed-One 13w Cfl-One Stereo playing continuous Greatful Dead-One 42" Plasma T.V. w/looped video of the sun. Yield=16 lbs!

great answer wooly!!! +rep

in nature it gets both spectrums year round, during spring the light is mostly blue spectrum but it still gets red spectrum and in late summer/fall it shift over to having mostly red spectrum and lower levels of blue. so to recreate natures color spectrums you need both spectrums not just one or the other.

as for proof-im sure you should be able to find a graph or chart somewhere on google or somewhere that illustrates this.

42 posts and asking if red spectrum is needed in flower......brilliant. ya you got it down.

__________________