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An established member told me my grow was very interesting and to post it...

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Indoor Growing

forums; So, today I did a final check and there are no little white mite looking things on the soil and ...
  1. #21
    420 TIME Stoner Fennimore's Avatar
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    So, today I did a final check and there are no little white mite looking things on the soil and the little black gnats are completey gone as well! Putting the sand on the soil for a few days really did do the trick! It suffocated the underneath bugs and eggs all while confusing the above flying gnats, which I killed during the sand process. I'm just glad they weren't all over my plant, since you can't sand a plant...

    Anyway, here are some more pictures I took today.
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  2. #22
    Super Stoner Mr. Ganja tom__420's Avatar
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    Why do you have a light underneath the plant lol? The bottom of the pot doesn't need to be lit up, just the the leaves man. You should move that light because in the position it is in now it is doing nothing more than heating up the roots and that is something that you always want to avoid. Good luck
    My Current Grow-
    GHS Great White Shark, 250w HPS, Aeroponics

  3. #23
    Mr.Ganja Mr. Ganja TeaTreeOil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlikWiLL13 View Post
    the wrinkles in the foil will create hot-spots and burn your plant. white paint is better.
    This is absolutely incorrect.

    Quote Originally Posted by tom__420 View Post
    Get rid of the aluminum foil
    Sigh.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jrankin89 View Post
    yes the wrinkles will mess things up, but im growing with foil right now, and as long as it doesn't have wrinkles, your fine. it might be worth it just to sit down and take some time to put up some cheap tin foil. then again, Mylar you can never go wrong with.
    Wrinkles decrease the surface reflectivity, and increase surface diffusion. This lowers the likelihood of hot spots even when curving the surface to create intentional hot spots.

    Quote Originally Posted by SlikWiLL13 View Post
    you can go wrong with mylar just as easily as you can with foil. all the same problems occur.
    Mylar doesn't really retain shape like foil. Mylar is a better intense(less diffuse) reflector of light compared to foil or paint(somewhat significantly). Mylar is also flammable, foil is not.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fennimore View Post
    So, what if my walls are an off white? does it need to be a bright white?
    You want white paint with titanium as the pigment. Often called flat white, check the label, you want majority titanium dioxide(TiO2), pigmented paint for best results. Titanium paint has a significant specular component, and is roughly equal to regular aluminum foil in terms of PAR reflectance. However, humid environments and paint don't mix, you should repaint yearly to maintain peak reflectivity.

    More here: http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-titanium-white.htm

    Hot spots occur when the surface is parabolic or similarly curved, which can focus light as a lens does. Smaller wrinkles, dents, etc, do not have a significant enough area to focus light into a hot spot. And completely work against intense reflectivity. Indeed, the opposite of 'what's claimed' occurs, actually, and more light is diffusely scattered in 'random' directions.

    If you want to test reflectivity of objects, I suggest getting a blue or red laser. Shining it on an object and observing how much of the light is observable from various angles will show you how diffuse or specular the surface is. For example, it's fairly difficult to see a laser's striking point(normal) on a mirror when the laser is directed away from you. It's really easy to do on white paint. it's also hard to see on a black surface, as most of the light is being absorbed.

    Indeed, with a simple laser and some experimentation you can roughly determine the relative absorption, reflectivity/reflectance, and whether a surface tends to be specular or diffuse for any surface you have by just using your eyes as measurement.

    A good test to determine just how specular a surface may be is to use it as a mirror and observe the reflected image of the laser. The tighter the resulting reflected beam is, the more specular(mirror-like), if the beam turns into a uniform glow, it's highly diffuse(typical white paint, completely diffuse is also called Lambertian).

    Now a completely Lambertian surface reflects 1 unit of light over half a hemisphere. In steradians(sr, units of solid angle) 1 sr will become 2*pi sr, resulting in significantly less intense light. It's also significantly more spread out.

    More about specular/diffuse reflectivity: http://las.perkinelmer.com/content/A...arIndustry.pdf
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diffuse_reflection
    http://www.glenbrook.k12.il.us/gbssc...ln/u13l1d.html

  4. #24
    420 TIME Stoner Fennimore's Avatar
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    Wow... That information was actually very useful! I really appreciate it TTO!
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  5. #25
    Stoner Mr. Ganja vh13's Avatar
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    TeaTreeOil, I wanted to give you a +rep for the tip about using a laser to test reflectivity of surfaces, but it seems I don't spread the love around enough. So, here's a hug instead.
    In an effort to sanitize the internet your signature has been edited. We suggest you consider professional help.

  6. #26
    420 TIME Stoner Fennimore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom__420 View Post
    Why do you have a light underneath the plant lol? The bottom of the pot doesn't need to be lit up, just the the leaves man. You should move that light because in the position it is in now it is doing nothing more than heating up the roots and that is something that you always want to avoid. Good luck

    I found that T-12 ballast at a friends shed and it had some "Gro and Sho" bulbs in it. He didn't want it, so I took it thinking it could help. I've been thinking it doesn't do much but waste electricity, but could be wrong.

    If you wouldn't have told me that, I probably would have never thought of it. You are completely correct, I don't want to heat up the roots! Why the fuck didn't I realize that? Oh, I'm a stoner. I was trying to light the underside of the plant but didn't think about the pot at all... Damn!!! I'm gonna change it right away... I hope I haven't caused any damage so far. I mean, it's only a 4 foot T-12, so it shouldn't be too hot...
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  7. #27
    Super Stoner Mr. Ganja tom__420's Avatar
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    Yeah you should be alright it was just causing some heat near the roots that you wouldn't want there. You can hang it on the wall so that it is shining on the side of the plant. That would light up the lower bud sites pretty nice
    My Current Grow-
    GHS Great White Shark, 250w HPS, Aeroponics

  8. #28
    420 TIME Stoner Fennimore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tom__420 View Post
    Yeah you should be alright it was just causing some heat near the roots that you wouldn't want there. You can hang it on the wall so that it is shining on the side of the plant. That would light up the lower bud sites pretty nice
    Thank you very much!
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  9. #29
    420 TIME Stoner Fennimore's Avatar
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    So, with the lights I added to the grow, it made the temp go up to around 85 degrees. Do I need to do something about this? Is it going to stop/stunt the growth? How could I set up a system in the closet to lower the temp? The door isn't even closed and it's 85 degrees... Any help would be appreciated! +REP to answers
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  10. #30
    Super Stoner Mr. Ganja
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fennimore View Post
    So, with the lights I added to the grow, it made the temp go up to around 85 degrees. Do I need to do something about this? Is it going to stop/stunt the growth? How could I set up a system in the closet to lower the temp? The door isn't even closed and it's 85 degrees... Any help would be appreciated! +REP to answers
    yes get the temp down to 75*(day) and 68*(night).
    and use flat white paint on the walls.
    LUDACRIS.

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