Thousands of Bugs! Fungus Gnats? Pictures! Please Help!

xochilives

Active Member
How much is a bag of D. Earth? A spray, what does it dissolve down or something, and what the hell is mizu?
 

mellokitty

Moderatrix of Journals
here's a company that deals in DE (lots of info but mostly about intestinal cleaning) (but there's a price list):
http://www.diatomearthoutwest.ca/Home_Page.php

my understanding of it as pest control is that its edges are razor-sharp at a microscopic level and it lacerates the bug-bodies. i don't think it dissolves; when you topdress your soil with it it works its way in and works against soil-borne larvae. you can get pyrethrin sprays that have DE in them as well, but i've heard you don't want to spray DE on living plant matter (you just want to use it *around them).

mizu is japanese for 'water'. i thiiiiink in this context it's a bonsai term....
 

suTraGrow

Well-Known Member
Use Avid friend you barely need any and it takes care of just about any pest problem. As long as you dont use it a week before harvest you will be fine. I have a few oage thread on here about the stuff how and why it works and the chemicals in it that make it efficient. This stuff will kill fungus nats, tripes, white flies etc... on contact and kill root aphids in a matter of hours. Il try to find the thread i had on it its about a year and a half old tho so well c.
 

420ego

Member
my understanding of it as pest control is that its edges are razor-sharp at a microscopic level and it lacerates the bug-bodies. i don't think it dissolves; when you topdress your soil with it it works its way in and works against soil-borne larvae. you can get pyrethrin sprays that have DE in them as well, but i've heard you don't want to spray DE on living plant matter (you just want to use it *around them).

mizu is japanese for 'water'. i thiiiiink in this context it's a bonsai term....
spot on with the sharp edges and lacerations mate.

came across a super soil recipe that called for an anti caking agent, in other words DE.
smart to build it in from the get go. will try to find the exact amount and post info

yes mizu is japanese for water hence the bracketed (water) next to the word in first post..lol

Our Die-Bug! Formula
Die-Bug! is a great product where the use of chemicals may cause concern. Our Die-Bug! formula also contains Food grade diatomaceous earth similar to what is found in toothpaste, cereal and other foods.
When DE is applied to the soil, ant mound or even mixed with grains, it cuts and dices the insects that travel through it. The insect then looses its fluid and dies. This can take 2-3 days more or less depending on the insect.
The sharp pieces are so powder fine it wont hurt you so it's safe around pets, birds, furry critters, children and other people.
Many farmers mix food grade DE with animal feed to kill internal parasites in farm animals.
The DE in feces will kill fly maggots that invariably appear in feces.

Use only where you have a slug or insect problem, as it will also kill insects that are beneficial to your plants and gardens.
Also use on the truck of trees and on the soil at the base of trees to kill over-wintering insects and fruit tree borers.
Be discriminating when applying - a little goes a long way and you don't want to disturb the natural balance of insects in the garden.
Instructions:
Outdoor Use -
Mix contents with 1 gallon of water.
While spraying, keep mixture suspended in liquid by shaking often.
Spray the soil and plants only where insects are a problem.
Indoor Use-
Sprinkle powder or spray liquid mixture in areas where ants and roaches are present and known to run - such as under sinks and baseboards, etc.
Note :
DE will also kill beneficial insects.
Do not spray blossoms.
i believe the beneficials they talking about killing are worms not microbs like mycorrhizae

here is a buy link
http://www.sweettomatotestgarden.com/products/express/express-data.htm

another food grade brand is
Perma-Guard Fossil Shell Flower
http://perma-guard.com/order_zones.html
a 1lb bag for around 10-15 bucks is the norm
 

MsBBB

Active Member
How much is a bag of D. Earth? A spray, what does it dissolve down or something, and what the hell is mizu?
I ordered mine online, the price is resonable. I paid just as much for a 10 pound bag as I paid for the shipping costs. I broke mine down into small size packages. I use some and give some away to people that might have a use for it. Mine is food grade and has many different uses. If I ever get plant insects I now know that I can mix it with water and spray my plants with it.:leaf::leaf::finger:
 
those are 100% not fungus gnats (i've had *those and they're not it).
according to what i've read and seen, (*knocking wood*) those are root aphids. i've heard that your babies can get really bad PM in the aftermath even once they're all gone so you'll want to keep an eye out for that.
Is PM pytheium also known as root rot? Cause yes I now have fuckin Root Rot! My roots are brown looking and when I pulled one of the plants I noticed these patches of green and white spores also spider web looking things on the net pots sticking to the hydroton...I blasted the remaining plants with h202 and hygrozyme...but I also read that you cannot 100% get rid of root rot cause it spreads especially in recirculating systems...wow this grow has gone to hell..I can't wait to start my new project 13x headbangers "nyc og kush x sour diesel" coco coir grow in 5 gallon pots! These will be handwatered...ill prolly toss the rdwc system cause its infected!
 

fdd2blk

Well-Known Member
sand is for playgrounds.

those plants are ruined. once your main stalk is damaged like that i don't think you can save them. i'd tear it all down and bug bomb the fuck out of it. for a month. then start with CLEAN everything.

good luck.
 

mellokitty

Moderatrix of Journals
i'd tear it all down and bug bomb the fuck out of it. for a month. then start with CLEAN everything.

good luck.
^that.

i wouldn't want to try to overcome root rot in rdwc (or any hydro/aero for that matter). especially given how much longer your girls need, even if they do manage to limp through to the end, they're going to be too busy trying to survive to give you anything decent. i've always found that once issues/disease take hold in water, it's a slippery slope from there...

good luck indeed.
 

IVIars

Active Member
Its not root rot. The aphids secrete a poison when theyre sucking on your roots which kills them and turns them brown. Diatomaceous Earth wont work on them, ive tried it. Get Spectracide (home depot), some Merit 75 or Bayer tree and shrub, and Insecticidal Soap. A No Pest Strip would help also but be careful, its poisonous to humans. Id start off with the spectracide one week, and the Imidacloprid (ingredient in Merit and Bayer) the next with the insecticidal soap. The Spectracide is a contact killer while the Imidacloprid is systemic. The soap will help clean the roots of a waxy substance that the aphids leave behind. Alot of people think they are gnats, but when the area that is infested with them gets overcrowded, they grow wings and fly to another plant. They also mistake aphids for nute deficiencies since they suck the nutrients from the plants. During flower you can use Azamax, but it wont get rid of them only keep them in check. Aphids also carry plant viruses, so even after you have them killed off, the plant may still show symptoms of aphids, but its a virus.

Using hygrozyme will help your roots out with the dead ones
 
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Its not root rot. The aphids secrete a poison when theyre sucking on your roots which kills them and turns them brown. Diatomaceous Earth wont work on them, ive tried it. Get Spectracide (home depot), some Merit 75 or Bayer tree and shrub, and Insecticidal Soap. A No Pest Strip would help also but be careful, its poisonous to humans. Id start off with the spectracide one week, and the Imidacloprid (ingredient in Merit and Bayer) the next with the insecticidal soap. The Spectracide is a contact killer while the Imidacloprid is systemic. The soap will help clean the roots of a waxy substance that the aphids leave behind. Alot of people think they are gnats, but when the area that is infested with them gets overcrowded, they grow wings and fly to another plant. They also mistake aphids for nute deficiencies since they suck the nutrients from the plants. During flower you can use Azamax, but it wont get rid of them only keep them in check. Aphids also carry plant viruses, so even after you have them killed off, the plant may still show symptoms of aphids, but its a virus. Using hygrozyme will help your roots out with the dead ones
Yeah I took the survivors out and put them in seperate buckets. Currently i am running water and bleach through the system to sanitize it for the upcoming grow! 8x Dutch Passion Blueberry 9x Larry OG clones, I will be doing them in coco coir as well!
 

NegroNinja

Active Member
Yeah I would recommend using mosquito dunks as they contain BTi, which is great for gnats and I believe aphids too. The larvae get eaten up. Works great as a preventative and will slowly kill them off as it breaks the life cycle. In the future I would start your grow as if you already have an infestation. What I mean is, prevention is WAY easier than eradication. I don't do hydro so I don't know where the small differences in treatment lie, but hanging a hot shot no pest strip or two, watering with mosquito dunks, and an occasional foliar with azamax, seems to cover all of my bases. I have yet to EVER have to rid an infestation. The only time I occasionally see a bug, and it's usually some sort of caterpillar, is when I have put the hot shot strips away during flower (I don't like to leave them out all the time during flower), but if I see any bugs I pull them back out and they die fast. Seriously they cost like $5 and are the most effective thing I've ever used on a variety of bugs.
 

Tron Lu

Member
I think i'm having the same issue. Aphids= I tried looking up photos and i haven't come accross that looks like these, i assumed fungus knats. I see a bunch that are tiny crawling around and then the flying ones. Mine is in a tent environment, I've been usign Azamax but and did a full clean out of the tent with lysol. pics below is less than a week later, they are back. I may have overwatered a little but it was the Azamax Soil Drench so didn't think having the water in there was an issue. Whats working best to get rid of these?
Bug 3.jpgBUG 1.jpgbug 2.jpg
 
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