mites.

I am just looking for a some feed back.

has anyone ever used safesoap for mites?

I have used neem for years but people are telling me that neems bad for the plant just wanted some feedback thanks!

spidermites will eat you alive and shit you out...

azatrol ftw

Safesoap can work. We need to alternate the remedies that work for each of us as Spider Mites, like many pesticides, become resistant to any one remedy. I use Neem several times, then Zero Tolerance Pesticide by Ed Rosenthal, for 3x's, then wait several days & back to the Neem. If we keep the space lab clean, i.e. refrain from outside clothing & shoes in the room, keep out visitors & pets, don't allow house plants, don't bring indoor plants inside & out, we can control the mites. Even supermites! I also spray the room down with Zero Tolerance PRIOR to introducing a new crop of clones to the room and make certain there are no mites on any incoming plants. Plants are also thoroughly DIPPED in Zero Tolerance prior to transplanting. Of course, I always test a plant first. yeah, lights off, room cooled, fans off and you can begin to see dead Spider Mite eggs.

general hydroponics makes a vegatible based insectiside, miteacide, nemacide, in one. it took me 5 days of spraying them daily and i got rid of all of the mites. but the best option would be to get something like ladybugs to eat them

Tla said:

I am just looking for a some feed back.

has anyone ever used safesoap for mites? Won't do the job!

I have used neem for years but people (their idiots)are telling me that neems bad for the plant just wanted some feedback thanks!

Click to expand...

Who ever told you neem is bad for your plants, send them out into the woods to find the biggest stick they can find and bring it back to you so you can hit them with it. Do not listen to these people ever again. OK now that we got that covered....

Neem is the dope for your plants I'll attach an article my buddy wrote last month. He turned me on to Neem 15 years ago. So read it but if you got bugs now get Azamax. It is made from Neem and has no restrictions on use. Heres the dope on Azamax

AzaMax™
Botanical Insecticide, Miticide, and Nematicide

AzaMax is a natural product with a broad spectrum of pest control and broad plant applications. AzaMax is made from special Azadirachtin Technical extracted using patented extraction technology from Neem, a tree known for it’s innumerable benefits. AzaMax contains Azadirachtin A&B as active ingredients and more than 100 limonoids from it’s special technology. The special feature of AzaMax is that it does not use hard chemical solvents and uses food grade formulation ingredients. AzaMax is licensed in all 50 states.
AzaMax is an antifeedant and insect growth regulator and controls pests through starvation and growth disruption. AzaMax effectively controls spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats, aphids, whiteflies, leaf miners, worms, beetles, leafhoppers, scales, mealy bugs, nematodes and other soil borne pests. Best of all, AzaMax can be applied up to the time or day of harvest. The product is exempted from residue tolerance, thus there is no harmful residue on veggies, fruits, herbs and flowers etc. Truly, AzaMax is a product of Nature in tune with Technology.






[FONT=&quot]http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/11/neem-oil/[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Nature’s Plant Protector[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Bill Sutherland from [/FONT][FONT=&quot]Growing Edge Technologies[/FONT][FONT=&quot] discusses neem oil and how it can form an important part of your indoor garden pest control program.[/FONT][FONT=&quot][/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]WHAT IS NEEM OIL?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]
[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Neem oil is a natural product derived from the seeds of the neem tree (Azadirachta indica). The neem tree is native to tropical and semi-tropical regions of South Asia but also grows in the Middle East and some parts of Africa. Most of the widespread cultivation and use of neem is in India, where it has been used for over two thousand years as a medicinal treatment for a plethora of ailments and disorders. The neem tree is an evergreen, which grows to around 60 ft (18 m) and produces white aromatic flowers followed by a small fruit that looks much like a large olive. Inside the fruit lies the payload; one large seed from which the oil is extracted by either cold pressing or solvent extraction. A by-product of neem oil extraction is a solid dried product called ‘neem cake’, which can be used as an organic fertilizer as well as a good method of controlling soil-dwelling pests. Here we will focus on the properties, uses and advantages of neem oil when used as a natural pest control agent for your homegrown fruits and flowers.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Please note: Neem oil products are not currently registered for use as a pesticide in Canada.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]What does neem oil do?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]This may sound disappointing, but it needs to be said: neem is not an insecticide that kills on contact, and it has a low instant ‘knock down’ effect. However, it is still very effective! Unlike other chemical insecticides, neem oil gets into an insect’s body after the ingestion of neem coated plant material and gets to work within a few hours. The predominant active component in neem oil is called azadirachtin, and once in a pest’s body it directly affects the hormonal system, more so than the digestive or nervous system. The way in which azadirachtin targets the hormonal system means that insects are far less likely to develop resistance in future generations. As well as azadirachtin, other liminoid compounds present in natural neem oil (nimbin, salanin, gedunin, azadirone, melandriol and more) play a significant collaborative role in deterring feeding and reducing pest populations.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Biological Effects of Neem Oil on Insects[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Historical use and recent research studies show that a broad range of phytophagous (plant eating) pest insects are affected and can be controlled by neem oil, these include:[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot]Orthoptera: grasshoppers, katydids, crickets etc.[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Coleoptera: wide range of beetles/weevils[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Hemiptera: leafhoppers, aphids, psyllids & some scale insects[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Lepidoptera: cutworms, borers & caterpillars[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Thysanoptera: thrips[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Diptera: Sciarid fly, fruit fly, buffalo/blow & march fly[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Heteroptera: sucking bugs – Green veggie bug, spotted fruit bug etc.[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Others: nematodes, snails, and also some fungi and pathogenic viruses[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]1. Insect Growth Regulation[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Neem oil is unique in nature since it works on juvenile hormones. The insect larva feeds and when it grows, it sheds its old skin and continues growing. This molting phenomenon, also know as ecdysis, is predominantly governed by the enzyme ecdysone. When the ingested neem, or more specifically azadirachtin, enters into the body of larva, the activity of ecdysone is suppressed. This causes molting failure and results in the larva not developing to the next life stage, and ultimately dying. If only a small amount of neem-coated foliage is ingested, and the concentration of azadirachtin is insufficient to cause molting failure, the larva will manage to enter a short-lived prepupal stage where it will die. In some instances, where the concentration of azadirachtin is still less, the adult emerging from the pupa will be malformed and sterile, without any capacity for reproduction.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]2. Feeding Deterrent[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]One of most important properties of neem oil is feeding deterrence. Most insects are permanently hungry during their larval stages, particularly when they are mobile on the leaf surface. An insect’s maxillary gland is responsible for initiating feeding. When these glands give a signal, peristalsis in the alimentary canal is increased, which makes the larva feel hungry, and makes it start eating. When a leaf is treated with neem oil, the presence of the liminoids azadirachtin, salanin and melandriol produces an anti-peristaltic wave in an insect’s alimentary canal, producing something similar to a vomiting sensation combined with a reduced ability to swallow. Because of this sensation, an insect will avoid feeding on neem-treated leaf surfaces.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]3. Oviposition Deterrent[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Another way in which neem oil reduces pests is by not allowing the females to deposit eggs. This property is known as oviposition deterrence, and quickly thwarts the pest population growth. Interestingly, studies by Knapp & Kashenge (Insect Sci. Applic.2003) on spider mites, and Singh & Singh (Phytoparasitica, 199 on fruit flies have shown that natural neem oil formulations are more effective as oviposition deterrents and insect mortality than azadirachtin concentrates alone. Results from Knapp’s & Kashenge’s study showed that azadirachtin does not seem to play a major role in the control of spider mites. Although, azadirachtin is an important component of neem oil, the other less studied ingredients seem to have a positive synergistic effect when it comes to effecting the behavior, effectiveness and mortality of plant pests.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Neem Oil’s Effect on Non-Target Species and Beneficial Insects[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]One of the problems with the use of chemical pesticides has been their impact on non-target species, particularly when used outdoors. Often they have proved harmful to other beneficial species present in the ecosystem. Neem oil products have proved to be remarkably benign to insects such as adult bees and butterflies that pollinate crops and trees, ladybugs that consume aphids, and wasps that act as parasites on various crop pests. As mentioned above, neem oil has to be ingested to be effective. Those insects that feed on plant tissues, therefore, easily succumb. However natural enemies that feed only on other insects, and bees and butterflies that feed on nectar rarely come in contact with significant concentrations of neem oil to cause themselves harm.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Neem Oil’s Other Benefits as a Foliar Spray[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Beside its insecticidal and nematicidal properties, neem oil is also a promising agent for the control of viral and fungal plant diseases. Neem oil in combination with paraffin oil has been shown to greatly reduce disease incidences of the yellow vein mosaic virus of okra and legumes, and leaf curl of chili, all of which can cause enormous losses. Neem oil has also been shown to reduce transmission of the tobacco mosaic virus in greenhouse vegetable crops of pepper, cucumber and tomato.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Neem oil has been demonstrated to suppress fungal activity. Fungi are constantly evolving enemies of growers and some can reach epidemic proportions. Neem oil has been shown to protect seeds against fungal diseases while in storage, and be beneficial as a preventative spray for fungal leaf diseases such as powdery and downy mildew.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Neem oil also contains some key nutrients that make it a good foliar fertilizer. A typical good quality neem oil product found in your local grow store will contain the following plant nutrients:[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot]Total Nitrogen 1.20% by mass[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Phosphorus as P 0.07% by mass[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Potassium as K 0.01% by mass[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Magnesium as Mg 0.03% by mass[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Copper as Cu 10 ppm[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Magnesium, as Mn 0.40 ppm[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Zinc as Zn 20.00 ppm[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Iron content 14.00 ppm[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]So, not only will regular spraying of neem oil onto your plant foliage control pests, it will also help prevent diseases and act as a foliage fertilizer! Amazing stuff.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]How to Use Natural Cold-Pressed Neem Oil:[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Foliar Spraying[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Like most of the vegetable oils, natural cold-pressed Neem oil is non-soluble in water and has to be made soluble with suitable emulsifiers before spraying. Some commonly available emulsifiers that can be used are liquid soaps, eco-friendly detergents, surfactants, wetting agents, soap nut powder, and many other organic emulsifiers.[/FONT]

1. [FONT=&quot]Collect together your equipment.[/FONT]
2. [FONT=&quot]To make 10 liters of spray-able neem, pour 1 liter of water into a container, add 10–15 ml of liquid soap, or a suitable emulsifier, and agitate well until the soap/emulsifiers completely dissolve.[/FONT]
3. [FONT=&quot]To this solution add 50 ml of neem oil and agitate well until a pale yellowish white emulsion is formed.[/FONT]
4. [FONT=&quot]Add this prepared emulsion to 9 liters of water in a bucket and stir thoroughly. The neem solution is now ready for spraying.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Spraying should be done within 8 hours of mixing, using a suitable sprayer. This solution can be used as a foliar spray on crops, and also can be sprayed on the surface of growing media for effective action against root pests.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]It is recommended to repeat the spraying 5 times at intervals of 7 to 10 days. Spraying should be undertaken during periods of low light intensity; outdoors or in greenhouses this should be in the early morning or late in the evening. If you grow under lights, raise them high and consider turning a few off to reduce light intensity before spraying.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Soil Drench[/FONT]

• [FONT=&quot]To make 10 liters of drench-able neem. Add 1 liter of water to a container. Add 20–30 ml of liquid soap, or suitable emulsifier, and agitate well until the soap/emulsifiers completely dissolve.[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]To this solution add 250–350 ml of neem oil and agitate well until a pale yellowish white emulsion is formed.[/FONT]
• [FONT=&quot]Add this prepared emulsion to 9 liters of water in a bucket and stir thoroughly. The neem solution is now ready to pour onto the growing medium. Apply enough for a small amount of run-off to occur.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]Please Note: Drenching potting soil with neem will adversely affect the beneficial biology of the rhizosphere. If you need to drench the root zone with neem, a follow up application with a good quality actively aerated compost tea will help to re-inoculate the beneficial bacteria, fungi and protozoa.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Neem Oil’s Effect on Plants[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Neem oil not only coats the plant foliage after spraying, it is actually absorbed into the leaf material and can be transported around the plant systemically. Neem’s liminoid compounds (mainly azadirachtin) can be taken up by the roots after root zone applications, thereby reaching leaf and stem material throughout the whole plant. This reinforces the anti-feeding deterrent properties or neem oil, which makes the whole plant rather unappealing to invading pests.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Due to this persistence in the plant, neem oil products should not be used on plants that are approaching maturity. As a general rule, avoid spraying or soil drenching neem oil on plants that have five weeks left before harvest. As mentioned above, neem products have been used topically and ingested for medicinal use by humans for thousands of years and are completely non-toxic. However, neem has a very bitter taste that can, if used too late in a plant’s life cycle, be passed into the developing consumable produce.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Summary of the Advantages of Neem Oil[/FONT]

1. [FONT=&quot]Broad spectrum of activity[/FONT]
2. [FONT=&quot]No known insecticide resistance mechanisms[/FONT]
3. [FONT=&quot]Compatible with many other insecticides and fungicides[/FONT]
4. [FONT=&quot]New mode of action with possible multiple sites of attack[/FONT]
5. [FONT=&quot]Low use rates[/FONT]
6. [FONT=&quot]Compatible with other biological control agents for Integrated Pest Management programs.[/FONT]
7. [FONT=&quot]Not persistent in the environment[/FONT]
8. [FONT=&quot]Minimal impact on non-target organisms[/FONT]
9. [FONT=&quot]Formulation flexibility[/FONT]
10. [FONT=&quot]Application flexibility — can be sprayed or drenched[/FONT]

Yeah, I don't get the thing about neem being bad for plants. If anything, it seems like my plants like it. I've killed off mites completely with just neem. I think the trick with neem, or any other treatment, is to be consistent and to stick with it. Do it every 3 days for at least two weeks - worked for me.

bonkia said:

spidermites will eat you alive and shit you out...

azatrol ftw

Click to expand...

Yea I love Azatrol!! I just got turned onto it, and seems to be working great! I just recently was giving a few plants that were pretty much covered in spidermites, I treated all three of them 2 times so far, and no signs of anymore mites, or eggs.. i'm gonna continue to treat them for about 1.5 more weeks.. Check out the Journal I have going on them right now.. Link in signature

why play with the bugs nuke those bitchs with azamax or azatrol

Well, the ladybugs will quickly become overwhelmed by mites. (Praying mantis as well)

Spraying toxins requires increasing toxicity to maintain effectiveness. (Not healthy for consumables.)

Treating the plants instead of the mites is definitely the way to go. Non-Toxic All Natural solutions do exist, unfortunately the Safer Soap has been sold for many years as a solution when it damages the stomata of the plants on the undersides of the leaves. (Gas exchange -Breathing) When you spray a bunch of soap on your skin and leave it there, it will clog your pores just like it clogs the pores on the undersides of the leaves. (Which is where this product is sprayed.)

A safe systemic treatment that requires no spraying is ideal. This is ALL we do. http://www.spider-mites.com

Happy Harvests!
-Farmer Tom

hellraizer30 said:

why play with the bugs nuke those bitchs with azamax or azatrol

Click to expand...

Azamax is highly poisonous. For Azamax Warnings: http://farmertomsallnatural.com/wordpress/?page_id=83

And there is no need to use it as there are natural solutions that ACTUALLY work.

The Less Poisons The Better!

-Farmer Tom

use neem, it safe and much better for your plants than mites lol

no pest strips, to nuke the room, then regular spraying with neem, but you will never get rid of them completely, one will survive hidden away somewhere and three months later you will have them again. if you grow a fast finishing strain, the bastards will have less time to ruin your crop.

Leothwyn said:

Yeah, I don't get the thing about neem being bad for plants. If anything, it seems like my plants like it. I've killed off mites completely with just neem. I think the trick with neem, or any other treatment, is to be consistent and to stick with it. Do it every 3 days for at least two weeks - worked for me.

Click to expand...

Mites quickly become immune to neem oil, and when they return, it's with a vengeance as their eggs will hatch with immunity to the neem oil. (Twice the problem as before)

Maybe this is why neem oil products do not offer a money back guarantee, as they know that the product will work once creating a larger problem for the grower.

Treating the plants is the way to go.

Medical Cannabis is a Billion dollar a year industry in MendoCino County. 2/3rds of the economy depends upon treating mites safely and effectively.

When people move to Mendo, they are prompted to grow by the real estate agencies and the grow shops provide substantial discounts on products to get them set up.

So in a way, mites do not just threaten our personal gardens, they threaten our way of life which is why we take dealing with them so seriously.

All of the products sold on the market to solve the mite problem focus on treating the mites themselves, typically with poison.

We decided to attack the problem from a novel approach, treat the plants (Safely) so that the mites have no interest in them.

The problem of mites has been solved with a 100% effectiveness. (Which is why we offer a 100% Guarantee on our product)

And of course there are probably a myriad of ways to naturally deal with the problem that have yet to be discovered, as most folks spend big bucks on poisons thinking that that will solve the problem, it doesn't and then they are out of all the time and money that they put into their gardens.

Most of the used grow equipment comes from people who setup their gardens got mites and lost everything. (So the hydro stores resell that equipment to the next person who generally makes exactly the same mistake.)

There is a very simple method of dealing with mites. Problem solved.

-Farmer Tom

Organic Insecticide


*Insecticides may be efficient in killing pests on your plants, but they often end up killing your garden and the environment as well*. Black pepper can be used as an all natural insecticide that will keep common insects and pests out of your garden. According to Wingazette.com, black pepper is more toxic than pyrethrins, another all natural insecticide that is derived from chrysanthemums. Mixing half of a teaspoon of black pepper with a quart of water will create an effective insecticide spray that will keep your plants healthy and bug free.

<li id="jsArticleStep1"> Insecticides may be efficient in killing pests on your plants, but they often end up killing your garden and the environment as well. Black pepper can be used as an all natural insecticide that will keep common insects and pests out of your garden. According to Wingazette.com, black pepper is more toxic than pyrethrins, another all natural insecticide that is derived from chrysanthemums. Mixing half of a teaspoon of black pepper with a quart of water will create an effective insecticide spray that will keep your plants healthy and bug free.

The second generation of mites will be immune to neem oil.

Though why wait until you already have mites?

"An Ounce Of Prevention Is Worth A Pound Of Cured"

-Farmer Tom

Farmer Tom's All Natural said:

The second generation of mites will be immune to neem oil.

Though why wait until you already have mites?

"An Ounce Of Prevention Is Worth A Pound Of Cured"

-Farmer Tom

Click to expand...

im pretty sure they cant become immune to neem oil, neem oil mimics their hormones and fucks their breeding, eating, stops eggs hatching and smothers them amongst other things, spray plants regularly through entire veg and early flower , its not instant but is lethal.