Tremors!!! (Stem Burrowing Insect) in the
Marijuana Plant Problems forums; I'm 26 days into outdoor flowering, and I'm having an insect problem.
Outdoor - Organic Soil 7g Pots
Tremors!!! (Stem Burrowing Insect)
I'm 26 days into outdoor flowering, and I'm having an insect problem.
Outdoor - Organic Soil 7g Pots
The plants have had their leaves sprayed with diluted neem oil a week or so before flowering, and a week into flowering. I've started seeing these brown worms, I crushed them all before I remembered I needed them for pictures, but I think their the culprits. As of today, I used the neem oil in a systemic approach. I watered the plants with diluted neem oil, and really soaked the leaves from top and bottom. I've never seen the ones in the holes, once they go in I don't know what the hell their doing.
If it's budworms as I suspect, I'm planning on purchasing some brand of Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) to treat the problem. My question is, could I get a type of meat injector and inject the Bt in the hole and hopefully force "it" to consume the Bt.
The main question I am asking is, what do you think it is, will Bt be good, and would carefully "injecting" Bt in the wormhole kill, or do more damage than the worms are?
Here's the what those burrowing bastards did to my girls.
Flowering Day 26
The white flakes seem to cover the holes, It must be the insides of the plant.
before.jpg 'Remains'.jpg typical.jpg
bughole2.jpg bugdamage.jpg after.jpg
What your helping save!
Afghan Kush Plants
Wierd tall Afghan Pheno
Thanks, I hope we can figure this out!
European Corn Borer Control
Description: A major pest of corn, the European corn borer (Ostrinia nubilalis) will also feed on over 300 different garden plants, including peppers, snap beans, potatoes, tomatoes, apples and gladiolus. Damage to corn is caused by the young larvae, which chew leaves and tassels. Later they tunnel all parts of the stalks and ears, resulting in reduced plant vigor, broken stalks, poor ear development, and dropped ears. Other crops are damaged primarily by the tunneling of the stalks, pods, or stems by the larvae.
Fully grown corn borer larvae (3/4 - 1 inch long) are extremely destructive, flesh-colored caterpillars with a reddish or dark brown head and several distinct spots on the top of each abdominal ring or segment. The adult borer is a night-flying, yellowish-brown colored moth (1 inch wingspan) with dark wavy bands across its wings.
Note: The European corn borer most likely arrived in the United States during the early 1900's in imported broom corn which was used to make brooms.
Life Cycle: Fully grown larvae pass the winter concealed in corn stubble or other plant parts on which they have been feeding. Pupation takes place in late spring, with the adult moths appearing in May and June. When mature, the females begin laying clumps of white eggs on the undersides of the lower leaves of host plants. (Adult females may lay up to 500 eggs over their short lifetime.) Under ideal conditions, these first generation eggs hatch within 3-7 days. Tiny caterpillars begin feeding on host plants and complete their development in 3-4 weeks. Pupation occurs deep inside the corn stalks and second generation moths emerge and begin laying eggs in early summer. Produces 1-3 generations per year depending upon the climate.
Note: Second generation borers are considered to be the most damaging to corn.
Control: Shred and plow under cornstalks in or near fields where borers overwinter. This should be done in fall or early spring, before the adults emerge. Use pheromone traps to determine main flight period for moths, then release trichogramma wasps to destroy eggs. Beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing, will consume a large number of borer eggs. Spray Dipel Dust (Bt-kurstaki) or Monterey Garden Insect Spray (spinosad) to kill young caterpillars. Repeat applications every 4-5 days until tassels turn brown. Use botanical insecticides only as a last resort.
Note: Ladybugs will consume almost 60 borer eggs a day. Stink bugs, damsel bugs, spiders and hover fly larvae feed on young caterpillars.
Tip: Control nearby weeds to minimize the number of borers in your garden. Moths are attracted to these areas where they rest and mate, resulting in proportionately more egg laying.
Predator Insects - Prevention
* Lacewing Eggs
* Trichogramma Wasps
* Lady Bugs
If they manage to make it in, at first signs use:
Rotenone-Pyrethrin Spray & Bt
Here's some stuff I read a little into. It's pheromone trapping. Trap some of the moths, or at least know when it's that time of the season to get ready. What about a bug zapper, do moths fall for that?
The most effective control strategies include inserting a stiff wire into each hole and killing the larvae. Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) can be shot into holes at 10 day intervals until no more frass appears. Try napthalene moth crystals to contain a serious infestation. Pheromone traps may be an effective control if you have only a few trees, but they won't attract the egg-laying females. Trap these by wrapping heavy paper around the trunk, from 2 inches below ground to at least 6 inches above, and then coat the wrap with a sticky material such as Tangle Trap. Destroy the wrap weekly, replacing it until no more larvae are trapped.
Look for sawdust like trails around the stalks and a gradual wilting of plants. The best control strategy for corn borers is prevention. In the fall, burn or otherwise destroy all garden debris that may be harboring caterpillars. Rotate crops. Try planting resistant varieties of corn and/or interplanting with peanut or soybean. Encourage the presence of predators such as barn swallows, blackbirds, downy woodpeckers, flycatchers, grackles, phoebes, and sparrows. Moles and toads also eat corn borers, as do a number of commercially available insects including beneficial nematodes, green lacewings, lady bugs and braconid wasps. Exclude borers from ears of corn by covering them with old pantyhose. BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), particularly the granular form, is an effective control if applied immediately after the first eggs are laid and then every 7 to 10 days until the egg-laying period has run its course. Useful botanical poisons include rotenone spray or dust and ryania.
To remove corn borers by hand, slit affected plant stalks just below the telltale holes and castings and pluck out the worm with tweezers.
^^ that last bolded section is what I did. I first slit up from the hole, it was real soft and hollow, I could guess how big they were gonna be/how damaged the plant was, on how easy the knife went in and up. Once slit I used a screwdriver to gently pry the stem apart and pluck that bastard out. Sometimes I'd just cut them with the knife and stab 'em out. After the removal of borer worms I injected Bt into the holes with syringes I bought for vaccinating cows. After that, I sprayed the stems up and down with Bt and lightly misted the leaves with a slight dilution of neem oil for the Bt to stick to. Tomorrow is a pyrethrin bath for the little bastards that think they can win. For the last 42 hours it's been an all out war. I'll admit at first I was getting my ass kicked, but after today's Second rundown of manual removal and my Bt soak down, I feel like I'm getting some ground back. By no means is this over, if I want these plants, their going to make me fight for them. I guess it's life's same old lesson. Oh, and between cutting the stems and injected worm holes, you'll cut your fingers more times than you can think with sliding sharp objects. I pricked my thumb with bateria filled needles so many times it feels like I hit it with a hammer over and over. Truly blood, sweat, & tears.
I find it strange that only a few select people have had this problem, and even less people post about it. More power to you, and I hope it stays that way, I wouldn't wish this things on anyone. Just givin' a little background that helped me. Next year I'll be ready for it.
dude i seen someone else post about that like 3 weeks ago and it tripd me out, i went straight outside and started inspecting my stems....damn thats shotty and i dont know $hit about it.
I had some sort of burrowing weavel insect worm thing in a tree of mine ONCE. Not really sure what it was. I hacked that limb off, precariously went over all the other plants and went along my way. This was up in N Cali a couple thousand feet elevation below Sonora Pass. If anyone knows where that is.
holy shit...I have/had the same problem(have had it for past week or two) and I scourged the interwebs for the answer, typing ailments into google did the trick, I immediately signed up for this forum for obvious reasons. They attacked me as well, I sliced upwards from the entry hole with a blade, immediately(seemingly) destroying the larvae, then i proceeded an attempt to cover the holes and mend the slice with plant tape. I had previously been spraying with "organacide" with limited to no results. Immediately fertilized after the removal of creatures, and sprayed with a new spray, "safer" vegetable and garden pesticide...HOWEVER, this morning, I noticed a NEW entry hole, much larger than previously noted holes, much higher up on the stem, and ALOT of goopey brown garbage that almost induced vomit onto me...im guna post a new thread with pictures of it
Great. I just got back from war. It's been a three day assault, with a break day in between (Fri.). The first day as you know, was the manual removal, with Bt injections in the cleared holes. The second day was a follow up of the first. Removal of missed, and new borers along with a spray bottle misting of the leaves and stems with Bt. Friday was a cease fire. Back at it again Saturday, I started with manual removal. I noticed today though, there was a fraction of the borers left compared to the first two days. Some of them were in the same hole, they gave away their position with the formation of new "saw dust". It made for much easier removal with the stems already being sliced. There were only about 6 new borer holes in the plants out of 50, 3 were in the same plant. I removed and injected with Bt.
That was my course of action. Bt Is a bacteria, a company named Thuricide is a major retailer of it.
My favorite Borer stopper though was the Permethrin. You can look for it in sprays for worms.
The product I purchased was Bonide: Eight Insect Control. It worked great
Today is when the game evolved. I purchased one of those 4 gallon back mounted pressurized sprayers and got to work. I did an initial spray down of the plants with Bt, then went on to spraying the surrounding plants. After about 30 minutes and the Bt was mostly dried on the leaves, I proceeded to spray the plants, and soaked the surrounding plants with Permethrin.
Except for a few instances when a branch was too far gone, the plants haven't responded negatively in regards to slicing the stem. Buds are juicy and really filling out. I'm not sure if it was because of the heat, but I when I was fingering through the buds looking for holes, my fingers got sticky QUICK. I'll be returning Monday, today was all business so I didn't get to snap pictures, but I'll get some Monday.
Thanks for taking the time.
Last edited by doctorwizzy; 09-01-2010 at 11:21 AM.
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