Grandma's Growing Again
by , 04-29-2012 at 07:54 PM (331 Views)
Rev is from KOS seeds. And also a written on skunk mag and skunk forums. His TLO recipe is a soil recipe. Here's a link.
http://www.cannazon.net/forum/showth...iving+organics
And the recipe
Master Soil-Mix Recipe
BASE MIX
2 gal Quality Organic Soil-mix (or good organic recycled soil mix)
2 gal Thoroughly Rinsed Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gal Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gal Earthworm Castings (fresh earthworm castings, and/or fresh compost works too)
AMENDMENTS
1½ cup Grow or Bloom ‘Pure’ by Organicare (or 1 cup 5-5-5)
½ cup Greensand
¾ cup Ground Oyster Shells (1 cup if no crushed oyster shells)
1½ cup Crushed Oyster Shells (optional)
½ cup Dolomite Lime (powdered)
1 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast Acting Dolomite Lime
¼ cup Blood Meal (and/or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 N-P-K if flowering 1/8 cup of each)
¼ cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup un-steamed (granular) Bone Meal (like Whitney Farms brand)
½ cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 as one good N-P-K example)
¼ cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
½ cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
½ cup Kelp Meal
4 cups (heaping) Composted Steer Manure (this inoculates your mix with specialized bacteria and primo organic matter)
½ cup Azomite granular (add an additional ¼ cup greensand if no Azomite)
1 cup Humic Acid Ore granular (like from Down to Earth brand)
1 cup Alfalfa Meal (or 2 cups pellets – make sure pellets are all organic no additives)
½ cup Rock Phosphate Granular (optional)
1 cup (heaping) organic rice (important for the good fungi in this soil-mix)
This mix should be moistened (Do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine free water, and turned over every few days, for about 15 days before use. This is what I call “cooking” your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before use, is fine. The nutrients don’t evaporate or anything, so no worries there, per storage over time. If this soil-mix turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demands.
I find cooking mine for about 30 days works the best for me, but I have often used it sooner, like at 2 weeks, and just remember the warmer it is outside wherever the soil-mix is at, the faster the cooking processes will happen. You can use a pH meter (soil pH meter) to tell when it is done cooking too. I wait until it is in the 6.2 – 6.8 range, which normally takes about 2 weeks, because as it kicks off cooking the pH will often be very low, like around 4.9 isn’t uncommon when it first starts to cook.
ONLY FOR USE WITH PURE WATER SOURCES, LIKE REVERSE OSMOSIS, RAIN, OR DISTILLED WATER. DO NOT USE WELL, TAP, OR SPRING WATER WITH THIS RECIPE.
This soil-mix is meant to be used along with the spike and layer TLO dynamic, and while it is quite capable of standing alone, it works supernaturally when you add the spike and layering dynamics.
Killer Spike Blends...
Spike #1 vegg
½ cup blood
½ cup steamed bone meal
½ cup high N bat/bird guano
½ cup feather meal
½ cup kelp meal
1 tablespoon ground oyster shell (optional)
Spike #2 all-purpose/flowering
½ cup feather meal
¼ cup bulb food 3-8-8
¼ cup soft rock phosphate
½ cup steamed bone meal
½ cup high P bat/bird guano
½ cup kelp meal
1 tablespoon ground oyster shell (optional)
Custom High Nitrogen Layer Blend...
- 2 parts blood meal
- 2 parts high N bird or bat guano
- 1 part feather meal
- 1 part ground oyster shell
Steer Manure Custom Bottom Layer Blend...
- 1 gallon (US Dry Measurements) composted steer manure
- 1 gallon perlite (small nugget size)
- 2 cups (heaping) coconut coir fiber (well rinsed with fresh water)
- 1 tablespoon greensand
- 1 tablespoon kelp meal
- 1 tablespoon ground oyster shell
- 1 tablespoon granular rock phosphate
Add to Earthworm Food Custom Recipe
- Perlite
- Coconut coir fiber (well rinsed)
- Greensand
- Crushed or ground oyster shell
- Rock phosphate (granular)
- Alfalfa
- Kelp
- Humate (humic acid ore shale)
- Cannabis leaves, stems, and roots (dried)
- Shredded junk mail
Adding this stuff to the earthworm food, prior to feeding it to the worms, is a fantastic practice and my earthworm castings border on magical. This results in some seriously beneficial (nutrient wise) compost you can add in large ratios to bagged soil-mixes to make them into stellar soil-mixes for TLO growing. It is important to cut your worm food with about an equal volume of perlite (small nugget sized) in order for there to be adequate aeration for supernatural composting to happen.
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