Not sure what a tek is, but heres the method I used :)
http://www.shroomery.org/forums/show...Number/6112517

technaflora has a recipie for sucess starter kit which only cost me about 40 bucks and it comes with all of this

The Recipe For Success Starter Kit consists of:

B.C. Bloom - 500ml
B.C. Boost - 500ml
B.C. Grow - 500ml
Thrive Alive B-1 Red - 125ml
Thrive Alive B-1 Green - 125ml
Awesome Blossoms - 125ml
Rootech Cloning Gel - 7g
MagiCal - 125ml
SugarDaddy - 250ml
ROOT 66 - 250ml
The Famous Recipe For Success Mixing Chart.
$46.78

i just started using the actual recipie that comes with the nutes and i have noticed explosive growth.:clap:

Oh for the record...I don't grow from start to finish in MG
Once veg is complete I make my own as follows:
Two parts peat moss, moistened
1/2 part perlite
One part composted cow manure
One part worm castings
One cup dolomite lime
One cup Epsom Salts
I use Boost, Bloom, Cal/Mag, B1, Awsome Blossoms and Sugar Daddy, all at manufacturer's directed rates except Sugar Daddy,
Which I use at an aggressive rate.

here dude, this is the post your talking about


and the thread i took it from, if you want to confirm...
http://www.rollitup.org/hallucinator...ful-drugs.html

My wife hasn't been able to toke for the last 10 years. It happened when our first child was born. She doesn't normally have anxiety, but when she tokes she gets real bad reefer induced panic attacks. Are there any strains that will help this problem. Thanks VK

ok so i have tried quite a few extractions, alot of them based on mhrb. and by far every extraction i have tried will not produce the results of this extraction. it also requires the minimal amount of equipment, and is very very easy.

starting material 500grams of mimosa hostilis rootbark powder
Quality is excellent, on fine powder with purple tint.

extraction materials
2- gallons distilled water
1- bottle of white lye without the aluminum shavings
1- bottle of muratic acid from fred meyer or ace hardware
1- bottle of scentless barbecue lighter fluid. 1 gallon at fred meyer $5

tools
1- razor blade
1- pair of scissors
1- cooking pot approx. 1 gallon
1- 5 gallon gas can
2- empty and washed gallon milk jugs
1- glass casserole dish
4- 1 gallon zip lock bags
1- 1/4 or 1/2 measuring cup
1- large funnel
1- glass pickle jar or something similar that is cleaned
a couple coffee filters
a few pairs of rubber surgical gloves
a pair of safety glasses or swimming goggles


ok so it's pretty straight forward. be careful with lye and muratic acid the burns hurt. i don't use the saftey gear but i don't recommend not using it. i use the gloves because i have been burned by the mix

first you are going to want to poor your mhrb into your gas jug. now heat up about a half gallon of your distilled water so that it is very hot but not quite boiling. once it is that hot using the funnel poor in as much of the hot water as is needed to wet the entire mix.

next in your glass pickle jar add 3 cups distilled water that is at room temp. then add 1 1/2 cups of muratic acid to the water. poor into the gas jug using funnel. seal the lid on the jug and shake the shit out of it for approx 5 min. then let sit for min of 45 min.

rinse your pickle jar, now add 4 cups of distilled water. get it as cold as possible. now put on your gloves and eye gear. i usuall do this part outside because it smells bad. i set the jar of water on concrete, then i add 1/2 cup of lye to the mix. i put a 5 gallon bucket over it and leave for 5 min. then i come back and cap the jar and shake it once. this will help dissolve some of the lye. then i uncap (it will pressurize so some of the vapor will gasp like when you open a new soda. so wear your gloves) then i cap and shake, then vent. i repeat until dissolved. then i let sit for 5 when all is dissolved and then i repeat. i do this until all of the 1 1/2 cups of lye is dissolved. takes almost 30 min. it will heat up quite a bit too so be careful. once your done you will have 1 1/2 cups of lye in 4 cups of water.

after min 45 minutes of acid soaking your mhrb you can add the jar of lye water. do so with a funnel. your mixture will turn black when you do this. now shake it for 5 min. let sit for 10.

now you do not need to do this next step but i promise you it is the easiest, especially if using the 1 gallon bags which are way easier than a turkey baster.

uncap your gas can and put on the easy poor spout that came with it. poor your mix into the 1 gallon clean milk jugs with an equal amount in each. should only fill them 1/2 to 3/4 full. if there is more then do it equally between 3 milk jugs. now add about 2-3 inches of lighter fluid to each jug. cap and shake for 3-5 min. let settle.

so now you have your mix with the soup and the fuel. the fuel should float to the top, but you will have two problems. a foamy immulsion layer where most of your fuel will be trapped, and well alot of your fuel and dmt is trapped in the rest of the mix too. so we are going to seperate that layer using heat.

poor 1 jug in your pan. heat on medium heat until the soup is hot. stir occasionally. use your gloved hand to stick your finger in the soup to check the temp. when it's hot it is done. you will notice that your fuel line will go from just a thin line to a much bigger line. when it is hot enough the foamy layer will dissappear and all your fuel will seperate. the right temp is when you can put your finger in but if you leave it in it starts to burn. this also serves another purpose. lighter fluids ability to collect dmt raises when it is hot. so your gonna be pulling alot more then if it was cold. once hot poor it back into your milk jug using a funnel.

next you are going to take your gallon zip lock bag and nail it from one of the top two corners to a wall. (a hint is don't use dollar store bags. get them as thick as possible. try to hang them over a sink or tub. or 5 gallon bucket. poor your mix from the gallon jug to the bag. it should still be hot so be careful. let sit 10 min. minimum. repeat with every jug after heating it. each jug gets its own bag.

now that you let your hot mixture sit it will cool down so you can handle it and it will have seperated. you should have your mhrb mix on the bottom. most of the mhrb will dissolve with the chemical treatments. so no straining. the fuel should be on top and have a yellowis tint to it. rinse out your jug, and your pickle jar. put your gloves on. you will want your jug and your jar within reach of both of your zip lock. take your gallon jug and put it under the bottom corner of your zip lock bag that has your stuff in it. cut a small corner off the bag, that corner and the mix should start pouring in to the gallon jug. you might have to milk out some of the mhrb if it obstructs the hole. use gloves because that can burn ur hands. as it's pouring out some may dark mhrb goop will stick to the sides. thats ok. let it drain to about where the fuel is 1/2 to 1 inch from the hole u cut. pinch the hole with your gloved fingers. with your other hand flick the side of the bag. the dark mhrb soup that stuck to the side of the bag should fall off every time you flick it and mix with the bottom part again. do this till it's all off the sides of the bag. now continue to drain off the rest of the black goop until you hit the fuel layer. pinch the hole again. set down your milk jug and grab the pickle jar with your free hand. drain the rest of the fuel into the pickle jar. a little bit of the goop will go into it as well this is ok.

now to seperate that last bit of goop. just let that jar sit on your counter for like 10 min. the goop will settle and stick to the pickle jar. poor off the fuel into your casserole dish. if any goop tries to follow then decant as much of the fuel ass possible stand the jar upright and then poor the rest of the fuel up anoter side of the jar. the rest of the goop will stick to the bottom. if not decant again, stand up again then up another side. this works great for me.

now for seperation of the dmt from the fuel. cover your casserole dish with sandwhich wrap or a lid if your casserole dish has one. tin foil works too. let sit in freezer 24 hours. overnight will work but we are doing as much in 1 pull as possible. in 24 hours you should have powder everywhere. stuck to the bottom and floating. i use a casserole dish because it's a bitch to scrape it from a jar.

now rinse your pickle jar. dry it with a paper towel. put your funnel in the opening and put a coffee filter in the opening. carefully poor fuel out of the casserole dish into the coffe filter i use a big funnel because some fuel will stick to the side of the casserole dish and will poor off the bottom too. you can use a butter knife to keep most of the dmt that is floating from pooring out in the funnel. either way some of it will. the coffee filter will catch it before it falls in the pickle jar. once all the fuel has drained poor the wet dmt from the coffee filter to the casserole dish with the rest of the dmt that is stuck to the sides and bottom. scrape the coffee filter when it's wet. now dry the dmt under a fan. don't scrape the dish when its wet. let it dry completely under a fan. i put a fan on it and leave it for 4 hours with the fan. when it's completely dry (completly dry is important.) scrape up your dmt with a razor blade. razor blade works the best. when it's all scraped up pour it onto a piece of paper and then poor it into say a pill bottle. something air tight that you can stick in the freezer.

total weight from fuel extraction off of entire mixture. 6 grams with mhrb from one of my favorite vendors. you can re extract with fuel off of the soup. but you will get at most 1/2 gram more. if that.

this tek is very pimp. excellent fluffy dmt. and very easy.

peace tenstrip

This will not work for hydro and must be applied to active soil. Sterile soil/coco will not do as these organic nutrients need to be processed by bacteria before becoming available to the plant.

alfalfa meal is really slow release, feather meal is faster, kelp meal real fast, and bone meal varies depending on how it is processed. Nitrogen is for vegetative growth. Potassium for DNA/RNA synthesis, root growth, and flowers. Phosphorous for ATP (energy transfer), roots, and flowers. You want high nitrogen with a little phosphorous and potassium for veg and high phosphorous and potassium for flower. Nitrogen and potassium migrate through the soil based on concentration gradients whereas the phosphorous does not.

You really need to do some reading if you want to do organics right. If you don't care you could always throw a handful of each into the pot and mix real well. Pretty much impossible to burn a plant with organics and they are not salt based like some chemical fertilizers. Worst you can do is overfeed nitrogen and get too much vegetative growth and not enough flowers.

This is roughly what I do:

It's all about maintaining the ideal ratio of N:P:K while accounting for time released nutes and immediately available nutes.

Here is a chart of roughly my nute schedule:


I aim for a high N with some P to start with, then have the P gradually over take the N around second week of flower, and finally ramp up the K at the end.

On my chart the names of the nutes are just labels - so the second bat guano watering would be in week 3, not week 2, and disburse 5-1-1, the 10-3-1 is there just to remind you of the actual rating on the box.

I'm not sure if this is the correct forum for these, but I figured they would be best for Newbs. Although I'm sure some of you seasoned growers might find use for these as well. :D

I have a HUGE collection of Grow Books and articles for you. I have collected these over the years and they have been VERY helpful for me, so I decided to share the wealth! They are all in .PDF format. I personally have every one of these on my Kindle and Blackberry, so I always have a copy with me. I spent a long time searching for and compiling this collection, so hopefully they will help someone out.

There is a total of 31 books and articles:

Arrest-Proof Yourself
Basic Hydroponics Systems
Beginner's Guide To Growing Marijuana
Beginner's Guide To Hash-Making
The Cannabis Grow Bible
Bong Building
Cannabis Alchemy
Complete Cannabis Cultivator
Curing Marijuana
Ed Rosenthal's Marijuana Growing Tips
Ganja Etiquette
Green Harvest
Guide To Growing Marijuana
How To Be A Pot Star Like Me
How To Grow Medical Marijuana
:leaf:How To Grow Marijuana
:leaf:How To Grow Weed
:leaf:Hydroponics, The Basics
:leaf:Marijuana Botany
:leaf:Marijuana Buds For Less
:leaf:Marijuana Chemistry
:leaf:Marijuana Grower's Guide
Oil
Rockwool - The Book
Science Of Marijuana
THC Resin Extraction
The Art And Science of Cooking With Cannabis
The Joint Roller's Handbook
Total Synthesis Of Cannabinoids
Ultimate Guide To Growing Marijuana
Marijuana Grow Basics - The Easy Guide For Cannabis Aficionados by Jorge Cervantes

DOWNLOAD HERE:
http://www.megaupload.com/?d=DUNP3CW9

For your convenience, I have combined all books and articles into a single 259MB .ZIP folder. (Sorry for the size, but the Jorge Cervantes book is HUGE @ 97MB) Just click the link and wait for the Free Download timer to expire. (Located under the "Premium Download" Button. usually takes around 45sec to expire)

I have a shitty upload speed, so this took me FOREVER to compile and upload.... THANKS would be greatly appreciated.

Let me know if you have any questions or if the link is down. Enjoy!!! :D

Fancy footwork my friend :D

That joe rogan rant really made him sound stupid. just my opinion.

I've smoked it quite a few times but my absolute favorite use of it is to eat it about twenty minutes after eating 5 grams of ground syrian rue seeds. Awesome. I just can't say enough about tripping this way. I've done up to 500 mg this way and it is so incredibly beautiful. Sex is amazing on it. I find this so much better than mushrooms and about as visual as really good lsd without the hideous hangover. The whole experience lasts about 5 hours and although I do feel a bit frazzled when I come down a good nap or nights sleep and life is wonderful and I feel refreshed. Vaping dmt is intense and highly recommended but it's so short that by the time you start overcoming your amazement to really pay attention to the experience, you're coming down and it's soooo hard to remember anything.

It does make me a bit goofy minded and susceptible to believing some wacky shit for a few days or a week so I've learned to be a bit wary during that time.

Full dvd of barry cooper's never get busted again vol 1&2. iv watched and i fully recomend for ALL RIU members to watch this. He explains the techniques the law enforcements use you against you, how they detect growrooms and how they find you growing outdoors. and some of the bullshit they tell you so you let them in your house. there is tons of USEFULL information here
LET ME KNOW WHAT YALL THINK........DOWN LOAD IT!!!!!!

http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/4672...vol_1__amp__2)

Sure man. I've read a lot on Northern Lights but I don't have much hands on experience with it (I grew Jack Herrer, but it only has 25% NL in it).
I read a lot of stuff online written by breeders and such so my knowledge is based on only that. Maybe it's flawed, but you try getting a story about the origins of a particular strain that is 100% factual...
Today, there are no available forms of the original form of northern light left. According the most reputable sources, the original was grown by a man called "The Indian" on an island off the coast of Seattle, WA. The female cuts were labeled #1-#11, with #5 being the best of the bunch and #1 a close second. The cuts were given to Nevil Shoenemaker (Then of "The Seed Bank" now known as Sensi Seeds) who then took them to Holland and refined them and made them commercially available to the world. He began making crosses with NL such as the still famous NL#5 X Haze, that became some of the most popular strains of the time and even still now.
It's unclear how the seeds and hybrids were made as the NL cuts were all female. Here is a short excerpt from a article at Seedsman;

"How exactly these new seeds came to be is unclear but apparently Neville Schoenmaker used the plants that he got from the Indian to create new hybrids by further crossing them to some males of Afghani origin. He might have acquired them from the same source as the females but the Northern Lights males were never labeled, so their history remains unclear. The best guess is that Neville Schoenmaker created the new seeds by further hybridizing and inbreeding the plants that he acquired from the Indian to his old stock. Northern Lights #1 was described as a true breeding Afghani IBL (inbred line), suggesting that it contained none of the Thai Sativa that was later incorporated into some of the Northern Lights strains. At what point the Thai Sativa was infused into the genetic lineage is however unclear. Most likely it was bred into the Northern Lights #2 hybrid at some point. Regardless of their origin or genetic makeup, two particular males labeled Northern Lights #1 and Northern Lights #2 are clearly mentioned as the fathers of many new plants in a Seed Bank catalogue from the 1980’s"

Today, the original NL #5 is no longer available in it's pure form. But hybrids made with the original NL genetics are still available.
A Northern Lights #1-Hindu Kush hybrid is offered by Dutch Passion as "Oasis." There is some NL#2 in Honey B from the Flying Dutchman.
The NL males produced some famous off springs such as Big Bud, Skunk #1, Hash Plant, Haze and Swazi. In fact, NL is probably responsible for more potent crosses than just about any other strain.
The closest representations of the original Northern Light #5 mother are offered by Sensi Seed, and are Shiva Skunk, Silver Pearl and Jack Herrer. Also, THSeeds offers a nice NL#2 called Closet Queen.
BCSC offers a NL#5, but as the original NL#5 was a clone only female, it's likely that it was hybridized with some kind of afghani or hindu kush.
Sensi offers a seed called only Northern Light. It's unclear which parents were used to create these seeds, but considering they have the original genetics, it seems like whatever they did, it's probably legit.
Northern Lights is one of the cornerstones in cannabis breeding today. Any grower would be lucky to work with this plant someday.

Sources:
http://www.seedsman.com/en/origins-of-northern-lights/
https://growguide.opengrow.com/Main_Page
various other internet sources

Here's a recipe that's worked for me involving mhrb (powder or as ground up as you can), syrian rue, and lemons. Don't be surprised if you purge an hour or so in, but you'll feel amazing after..

1. Measure out 7 grams Rue seeds. These are extremely hard so the best way to break them up is to wrap them in paper and beat repeatedly with a hammer. I know it's not the most graceful method but it needs to be done. Maybe you could just thank the seeds while you're bludgeoning them. Split in half (3.5gr each) Get two glass tumblers or shot glasses, put 3.5g in each glass, a bit of water and a squezze of fresh lemon juice... let soak while you prepare the brew. (If you order from the site i sent you make sure to adjust the measurement because its pure Syrian rue sold by the g.)

2. Measure out 36 grams Mimosa Hostilis (18 grams each is a fairly strong dose) Use Blender or food processor to grind as finely as possible. Careful : Mimosa is hard stuff, it will break a cheap processor/blender.

3. Put ground Mimosa in a stainless steel or pyrex cooking pot.

4. Prepare a mixture of 500ml - Water and 30 - 40% fresh squeezed lemon juice. (This will be acidic enough to coax the dmt out through boiling)
You may want to prepare a 2nd mixture of the same thing as you will need to add more.

5. Pour the lemon/water mixture over the mimosa until is completly covered with the water. Simmer/low boil for 20 minutes, stirring frequently. You don't need a heavy rolling boil.

6. After 20 minutes, strain the contents through a cheesecloth into a seperate container. You should have a deep blood/burgandy colored liquid. Squeeze the pulpy rootbark thouroughly to get all the juice out. Return the pulp to the pot and add some more lemon/water. You don't need to add 500ml every time, just sufficiently cover the bark and if the water starts to boil down too low you can just add a little... it won't change anything.

7. Simmer/boil again for 20 more minutes, stirring frequently. Strain through cheescloth in to same container that holds your first extract. Return pulp to pot and extract one last time, same as the first two. Strain through cheescloth into same container that holds your other two extracts, making sure to squeeze thouroughly, getting the last drops of liquid into your extract. Notice that your third extract will not have the same deep color your first two had... this is good, the spice is in your extract.

8. Now you will have a large container of your extract. It would be absurd to try and drink this much liquid, and if you take a big smell of what you have this becomes obvious. What you want to do is bring it down to a reasonable amount. Put it back in your pot and put it on a LOW flame. Simmer until you've got a reasonable amount for two people to drink. Go down to about 500ml. If you need to you can stop and pour it back into your measuring glass to check your volume. 500ml isn't too bad. Most people say how retched the taste of the Mimosa tea is... it is bitter but I didn't find it THAT bad. The Rue is worse because of the consistency.

9. Once you've got your brew down to about 500ml or so, split it into two glasses, one for you one for your partner. Don't drink it yet!

10. It's time to get that Rue in you. The MAOI will stop your body from metabolizing the DMT to quickly. Go back to your Rue that has been soaking and down the glass, seeds and all, get all of it. (You don't really need to soak it, you could just eat the seeds, I just prefer to soak, then shoot it and get it over with)

11. Wait 20 minutes for the Rue to take effect. You will feel it noticebly as maybe a heaviness in your limbs.

12. Now it's time... the Rue is in you and active... Let's drink that brew. Some people like to sip, I say GET IT DOWN!!! This creates a nice intense lift off noticeably taking effect within about 20 minutes.

13. Get comfortable, light some candles, burn some incense, get some blankets because you will get cold... MOST IMPORTANTLY... have a good music selestion ready for the journey... this will be your guide through the jungle! You want some meditative/nature stuff, maybe some didjeridoo music, definitely ambience. Flowing and soothing. See you on the other side!

Enjoy!

here you go guys.. I didn't realize everyone was lost with this subject. Here's some information for you guys to read:


It's a very simple and effective process:

Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap. Take it down while the stems still have some flex, but the product feel dry on the outside. This is a perfect opportunity to drop the dry-feeling flowers onto a screen and collect prime-quality kief that would otherwise get lost in the jar.

Jar the product, along with a Caliber III hygrometer. One can be had on Ebay for ~$20. Having tested a number of hygrometers - digital and analog - this model in particular produced consistent, accurate results. Then, watch the readings:

+70% RH - too wet, needs to sit outside the jar to dry for 12-24 hours, depending.

65-70% RH - the product is almost in the cure zone, if you will. It can be slowly brought to optimum RH by opening the lid for 2-4 hours.

60-65% RH - the stems snap, the product feels a bit sticky, and it is curing.

55-60% RH - at this point it can be stored for an extended period without worrying about mold. The product will continue to cure.

Below 55% RH - the RH is too low for the curing process to take place. The product starts to feel brittle. Once you've hit this point, nothing will make it better. Adding moisture won't restart the curing process; it will just make the product wet. If you measure a RH below 55% don't panic. Read below:

Obviously, the product need time to sweat in the jar. As such, accurate readings won't be seen for ~24 hours, assuming the flowers are in the optimal cure zone. If you're curing the product for long-term storage, give the flowers 4-5 days for an accurate reading. If the product is sill very wet, a +70% RH reading will show within hours. If you see the RH rising ~1% per hour, keep a close eye on the product, as it's likely too moist.

HTH,
Simon



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Additional information on Hygrometer curing
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Default

Phase #1: 70%+ RH: This starts out just like any other time you have done it. Once you have harvested your bud and trimmed it to your liking, hang it in a cool dark place. This is where we will part from tradition. Allow it to hang until the buds begin to feel like they are drying (note the temps and rh as this will rarely be the same during subsequent harvests). They will start to lose their "softness" in favor of a slightly crispy texture. We don't want to allow it to dry until the stems snap. THIS IS WRONG! We want the stems to be flexible. Not totally soft, but not snapping, either. If allowed to dry until the stems snap we risk it drying too much and losing an opportunity to take full advantage of the cure window. You see once the bud reaches the 55% RH range, the cure is dead. No amount of moisture added will revive this. If you are a brown bag dryer you can still use this technique, although I no longer do. I feel it is unneccessary at this point in the drying process. Just make sure you do not over dry. Also, this is a perfect time to calibrate your hygrometers with your new calibrating kit. This phase may take anywhere from 2 to 7 days depending on ambient temp, RH and strain, etc. It is important to be right on top of this phase. Sometimes we will notice thinner stemmed buds getting done quicker. It is ok to take these first and put them in the jar. Just screw the cap on very loosely until the bulk of the bud joins it.
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Phase #2: 70% to 65% RH: This is where the numbers game begins to kick in. Once you have reached the crispy bud/flexible stem stage, it is time to jar it up. Now there are a few options here.. Really you can jar it up just like always. Only, fill your jar 3/4 to 4/5 full so you have room to use your hygrometer. You can leave it on the stem, stem free, whatever. I personally prefer it in it's finished state, no stems. You can leave just a few stems intact for the sake of testing stem flexibility. Also, with more stems comes more moisture. This may fit well with your style, but it also may play havoc if mold is present. Once your bud is in the jar drop in the hygrometer and cap it. Keep an eye on your meter for the next hour or so. What we are shooting for in this phase is 70% RH maximum. If you hit 71% or greater, you will have to take the bud out to dry more. If this seems a little tricky here, it is. The cure, even though we are still in the dry phase, has been happening to a small degree since the moment the bud was cut. Basically now we are juggling time with mold prevention. We want to avoid any instance of mold, but we want to get every second of cure time in that we can.

The goal in this phase is to start at a 70% maximum RH and, in a timely and mold free manner, bring the RH down to about 65%. The reason I say "about" is that if there is an issue with mold (i.e. the crop was exposed to heavy mold before and/or during harvest) we may chose to take the RH even lower, like 62%. This won't leave a huge window for curing, but it will keep the bud safe. Ideally, however, 65% will do. Generally you can tell pretty quickly if the bud is still too wet as the hygrometer % will climb pretty quickly (rate: 1% per hour or faster). You will also notice, at this point, that the bud will feel "wetter". That's ok. The reason for this is that while the exposed part of the bud began to dry quicker than the inside during phase one, the inside of the bud and stems retained a good deal of their moisture. Once in the jars (phase two) that moisture can no longer be efficiently evaperated off and moved to a different area, being replaced by dryer air. Once you have determined the RH, which may take up to 24 hours, you can begin burping the jars. This can be done at a rate of one to two hours once or twice a day, depending on initial RH reading. Your room RH, temp, strain, exposure to mold and hygro readings will dictate this for you and wether to go faster or slower. Slower is always better, but precipitating factors, as stated, may trump this.. Also, at the end of this stage is where most commercial bud will hit the open market, if you are lucky. The bud at this stage should have that super sticky icky velvety feel and the 'bag appeal' will be at it's very highest.
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Phase #3: 65% to 60% RH: Your buds are in the jar and RH is 65% or less. Perfect. The object of the game, as stated before, is to slowly release the moisture from the jar over time. Your buds are now in the cure zone. At this point we are looking for a much slower release than phase two and will shift to a short burp once a week. Your buds will deliver a nice smoke at around 60%, so the speed at which this is done (which translates directly to duration of burpage) is entirely up to you. It is at this stage that small stems should snap in two. It is also in this stage that you will meet true stability, or equalization, in RH. What that means is that the amount of moisture in the stems is no longer disproportionate to the buds, and moisture transfer or persperation (sweat) slows dramatically. This also means it will take much longer to get a true reading from your Hygrometer. A true reading at this point might take up to 36 hours, but that's ok.
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So, do you know what your idea of a perfect smoking bud is? If you have followed the phases as you have read them, then this is the stage where you can find out. It may be as specific as a stationary RH value, or even a "window" between different values. Everyone on should know their Ideal smoking range. I prefer mine on a slightly dryer cure, say between 55 to 57%.
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Phase #4: 60% to 55%+ RH: Even though a true cure is far from over, your buds are truly ready to smoke if you wish. They are also ready to face long term storage. As stated before, the cure dies at -55%. It is ok for the cure to be dead if you have reached your desired cure level as later remoisturing can easily bring that bud back into your prefered smoking range. But, you can also continue the cure for long time periods and the trick to this is to stay above the 55% level. Unfortunately even claimed 'air tight' jars will allow bud to continue losing moisture over time. The trick here is to guarantee air tightness. Simon has suggested that he jars in air tight jars and double vacuum bags it as a way to ensure cure integrity. I am less picky. It is a good idea, though not neccessary, to leave a hygro in the jar and check it from time to time. I would start with once a week for the first month then, if everything is stable, once every month after that should suffice.


There ya go.. hope you enjoyed reading it.

peace.