Foliar Spraying Sugar

I found this in the organics and this really and made me think if you can get shorter nodes and excess fruiting sites by foliar spraying sugar is that not what we want in our plants? Has anyone heard of this?
I have emailed the company asking for clarification on what they meant by this statement.

I posted the whole article but this is the part that got my attention.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.



“Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates”
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic production.
Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc., Texas Plant & Soil Lab (Home)

Environmental factors that affect when and how much sugar to use:
a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]

The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.

Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.
Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars and photosynthates are formed.

Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.

Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.

Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate production, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.

ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
- MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides found in humus products.
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most effective.

In the soil it can:

- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.

- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly feed the roots for continued productive growth.

- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.

-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.

Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the induced fruit can mature.

sounds like a good way to breed bugs, fungus, and generally traumatize the plant for sure

in other words....fine if you have an entire lab for it....not so much for the closet grower though

sparkafire said:

I found this in the organics and this really and made me think if you can get shorter nodes and excess fruiting sites by foliar spraying sugar is that not what we want in our plants? Has anyone heard of this?
I have emailed the company asking for clarification on what they meant by this statement.

I posted the whole article but this is the part that got my attention.
-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.



“Molasses and Plant Carbohydrates”
Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic production.
Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc., Texas Plant & Soil Lab (Home)

Environmental factors that affect when and how much sugar to use:
a. How much nitrate is in the soil, and plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions.
c. Sunlight intensity.
d. Temperature.
e. Wind
f. Fruiting stage / load
g. Growth / vigor [shade lower leaves]

The right amount at the right time can improve fruiting and produce normal
plant growth with less attraction for disease and insects.

Needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development &
maturity.
Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the
petiole (stem) to the leaves where the sunlight aids the production of
photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis)
carbohydrates (C, H & O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then other sugars and photosynthates are formed.

Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated (boron is essential to the translocation) to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of the plant at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars.

Once the proper balance of environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met, the fruiting buds form and then fruit formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.

Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing terminals,) to speed their growth. The left-over sugars, etc. then go to the number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take up nutrients to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthate production, fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.

ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
- MOLASSES is probably the best outside source of many sugars, such as table sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars such as polysaccharides found in humus products.
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most effective.

In the soil it can:

- Feed microbes to stimulate the conversion of nitrates to the more efficient NH2 form of N to synthesize protein more directly by the plants.

- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap stream to supplement the leaf supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly feed the roots for continued productive growth.

- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow
fashion while maintaining normal growth.

-EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliarly can shock the
plant resulting in shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation of excess fruiting sites. This can be a short term effect lasting only a few days.

Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient balance and sufficiency as well as adequate light for photosynthate production decide how much of the induced fruit can mature.

Click to expand...

be carefull with info like that.... I will tell you what I use for foliar and this mix is hands down the best so far. #1 Superthrive ( Vitaman b-1) Nitrozyme ( all natural marine algae ) Wet Betty plant penetrator ( only thing i use from AN since their nutes suck badly ) ( mostly potassium sulfate ) Hydroplex ( mostly P2O5 or phosphate ) start with first three for first 3 weeks which for me is 2 veg and 1 flower. then switch the nytrozyme for the hydroplex and lower the ppm slightly for weeks 2-3. week 4 I add purple max in combination with last three ( oh yea mix that and let it sit for about 3 days and get a smelly pee surprise) and on week 5 thru 7 and 1/2 add gravity in the mix none of which say sugar as an ingredient. Then the good old flush for the last 5-7 days. mostly all vitamin b1-3 and algae nothing stating sugars in it. here is my grow pics are kinda eh since I took on iphone and I wish I could upload a video on here to show ya the full room. Sugar will get you something but more then likely will be ants & bugs.

https://www.rollitup.org/do-yourself/429320-new-grow-pics-please-comment.html#post5681600

some bugs sprays use sugar to dry out the bugs one is called sucrashield really good stuff kills bugs quick also can dry out your plants by pulling out water so be carfull and mix half of what the derctions say ...........On anther note dutch master has been putting a lot of research into amino acids being able to be absorbd by the leaves check out some of there sprays

ChubbySoap said:

sounds like a good way to breed bugs, fungus, and generally traumatize the plant for sure

in other words....fine if you have an entire lab for it....not so much for the closet grower though

Click to expand...

Oh I know all the dangers of this topic and have no intention to trying (YET) and I also knew that it would bring out all the molasses heads as well. Just wanted to throw it out there to see if anyone knew of this technique

sparkafire said:

Oh I know all the dangers of this topic and have no intention to trying (YET) and I also knew that it would bring out all the molasses heads as well. Just wanted to throw it out there to see if anyone knew of this technique

Click to expand...

I will tell you from experience...... Some things are better left not experimenting with. Or if you do make sure its like 1-2 plants in a separate room so if any bad buggies get in there it wont destroy your main crop. although when I try something new I will take about 20% of the plants in my room in this case lets just say to make it even I have about 25 plants to experiment on and 100 to do my normal stuff. That way at the end I have multiple plants with multiple growth patters to compare to the other plants in the room. I do this because I just do not think only doing 1 plant when you have in this example 125 or whatever in there would give you fair result percentages. If I am changing my ways I want to guarantee that it works consistent across the board and not just a fluke. So if the 25 plants out produced every other plant in the room your golden. If only 1-2 out produced and was only by 1-2 grams Why change for that slim chance. But if all plants had 3-7 more grams per plant now we are talking baby. That is how over the years ( besides the ones in jail ) I have managed to increase yield from 1.5-1.75 per plant to about 2.5-3.2 per plant with a 2 week veg time but to be honest I Have not had that much increase in yield success on OG strains as they produce less most of the time). I am only averaging 2.2-2.4 oz per plant on OG's with only 2 week veg time. And yea I know you can get more I was just talking about 2 week veg time not 6 weeks

Ok they got back to me and wow this is complex stuff. I will post all they sent me first being the info on sugars and what it does. All the other things will be about sending samples to find out what your plant is telling you and when to spray or inject sugars.


USING ADDED CARBOHYDRATE (Sugars relating to plant functions for Maximum Economic Production
Sugar Cane Molasses is the best natural source - table sugar is more concentrated also works!
ENVIRONMENTAL FACTORS that affect when and how much sugar to use:
a. How much excess nitrate is in the soil, and is in plant sap (petiole test).
b. Soil moisture conditions. e. Wind
c. Sunlight intensity. f. Fruiting stage / load
d. Temperature. g. Growth / vigor [shade of lower leaves]
The right supplemental amount of sugar at the right time can improve fruiting and help produce normal plant
growth with less attraction for disease and insects.
Natural Sugars are needed for healthy plants - fruit production - plant development & maturity.
Roots take nutrients from the soil and transport them up the stalk thru the petiole (stem) to the leaves where the
sunlight aids the production of photosynthates (sugars are not the ONLY product of photosynthesis) carbohydrates (C, H
& O), principally glucose (C6H12O6) and then many other sugars & photosynthates (hormones, enzymes, etc.) are formed.
Plant Sugars and other photosynthates are first translocated from leaves (boron is essential for the translocation)
to a fruiting site. If fruit is not available, the sugars, along with excess nitrates, spur the rapid vegetative growth of
the plant at the expense of creating fruiting bodies (first sink) for the storage of the sugars. Once the proper balance of
environmental factors (heat units, light intensity, soil moisture, nutrient balance, etc) are met the fruiting buds form and
then fruit formation gets the first crack at the sugar supply.
Any excess sugars are then translocated to the number two sink, (growing terminals,) to speed their growth. The
left-over sugars, etc then go to the number 3 sink, (the roots,) to aid their growth. Here the new root hairs take up
nutrients, especially PO4, to help continue the cycle of sugar and other photosynthates production, for
fruiting, growth of terminals and roots.
ADDED SUGARS CAN AID THE PLANT IN SEVERAL WAYS:
- MOLASSES is probably the best outside sugar source (contains many types of sugars, humics K, Ca, Fe etc)
such as table sugar, corn syrup and several more complex sugars ( polysaccharides) found in humus products.
- Sugar can be added to the soil in irrigation water, drip & pivot being the most effective, or watering buckets.
* In the soil it can: - supply energy to microbes feeding on carbon (humus) to stimulate the conversion of
nitrates to the more efficient NH2 form of N to help synthesize protein directly by the plants without them
having to utilize their natural sugar for energy for the conversion of NH4 -- NH3 -- NH2 the amine form.
- The roots can directly absorb some of the sugars into the sap-stream to supplement the leaf
supply to fruit where it is most needed, and ALSO directly feed the roots and adjacent
microbes for continued productive growth.
- This ADDED sugar can also help initiate fruiting buds in a steady-slow fashion while
maintaining normal growth (melons, peppers, cotton squares, peanuts, etc.)
- EXCESSIVE amounts of ADDED SUGARS applied foliar can shock the plant resulting in
shortened growth internodes, increased leaf maturity & initiation of excess fruiting sites. This
can be a short-term effect lasting only a few days. Pollination, soil moisture, nutrient
balance and sufficiency as well as adequate light for photosynthate production decide how
much of the induced fruit can mature.
2
* ADDED SUGARS can be beneficial when: Nitrates are excessively high in the soil and plants
- SOIL - The excess NO3 form can be toxic, the N must be converted to the NH2 form
for the development of protein N for the plant to properly assimilate. The conversion
requires energy so the plant’s supply of natural carbohydrates (sugars) is utilized at the
expense of better fruit development. Adding extra sugars to the soil supplies energy for
the soil microbes to convert the nitrate so that the naturally produced sugars in the leaves
do not have to be wasted supplying energy for the photosynthesis processes in the leaves,
but then can directly support producing fruit.
- Also, roots can utilize the extra sugars for their normal growth and plant functions, especially
when the leaves are not producing adequate sugars for fruit, root and shoot growth,
which causes plant cut-out.
- Sugars can be added to the soil in water and fertilizers.
- PLANT - Sugars applied foliar to the plant are utilized much faster than soil applied, and there can
be a shock effect if overdosing occurs. Sugars can be directly assimilated into the photosynthesis
process occurring in the leaf, speeding maturity and producing more natural sugars. This reaction
occurs within hours of application and fades in a 3-7 day window. It supplements the naturally
produced sugars and the excess is transported to the fruit producing areas to initiate fruiting
buds or supply fruit development: excess then goes to the growth terminals to sustain new
growth and future fruiting sites: the remaining sugars go to the roots to sustain their new growth.
(Young root hairs take up most of the phosphate which shows up in the sap with the petiole
phosphate tests thus predicting plant cut-out).
# Cloudy days and low sunlight intensity - reduces natural sugar production causing less fruit set or
sloughing young fruit, longer space between nodes and fewer fruiting buds.
# Sugar is a Source of energy for beneficial soil microbes. Microbes existing on soil organic matter can
multiply faster when there is an abundant energy supply. Sugars supply energy for rapid
microbial decomposition of raw organic matter and thereby release plant nutrients to roots, and
conversion of nitrates to the organic form (amine nitrogen - NH2) that can be directly and
efficiently assimilated into the plant processes.
# Prevent leaf burn from repeated foliar sprays - Carbon (carbohydrates) buffers the caustic effect of
many chemical nutrients and pesticides. Sugars, humus compounds, Urea and other carboncontaining
compounds can protect leaf surfaces from damage and increase efficacy; must use
proper amounts!
FOR SPECIFIC RECOMMENDATIONS OF SUGARS to prevent leaf burn or
nutritional purposes we rely on the physiological stage of growth and the nutritional balance of
nutrition in the plant as determined by our ‘Ask The Plant’ crop-logging plant analysis program.
If nitrate is too high which promotes diseases the rate goes up --too low, rates go down; PO4
must be high for good root activity.
SUGARS have an array of functions on the ‘SOIL FOOD WEB’.
TOO MUCH OR TOO LITTLE can greatly affect the plant development of fruiting and/or maturity !!
* This is an oversimplification of very complex biological plant functions based on many published articles
and on many trial & error TPSL crop-log petiole programs on hundreds of fields across thousands of acres.
Trial & error are good teachers ! ! !

And ask the plant form. I am trying to get the PDF to load

ASK THE PLANT ® LEAF & PETIOLE ANALYSIS
FEE SCHEDULE EFFECTIVE SEP. 2010**
Reports include Lab Analysis; EXCLUSIVE COMPUTER-GENERATED COLOR-CODED PRESENTATIONS, RECOMMEND-ATIONS AND PHONE OR FIELD (LOCAL) CONSULTATIONS. Analysis: Plant (Leaf % N & P - Past Uptake) or Petiole (Sap NO3 & PO4 - Future Uptake) Plus Minerals ( K-Ca-Mg-Na) and Micronutrients (Zn-Fe-Mn-Cu-B-S) + RATINGS & FUNCTIONS.
See ASK THE PLANT ® Leaf / Petiole Sampling Instruction Sheet.
TEST
NO. INDIVIDUAL LAB ANALYSIS 1 - 6 SAMPLES 7-12 SAMPLES 13+ SAMPLES .
1 ASK THE PLANT ® Primary Analysis (all of above) $ 68.00 $ 65.00 $ 62.00
2 Nitrate AND Phosphate (or %N & P) 34.00 31.00 28.00
3 Nitrate OR Phosphate Only 28.00 25.00 22.00
4 Minerals and Micronutrients 38.00 36.00 33.00
5 Complete (all of above - WE TAKE) 88.00 86.00 84.00
6 Sulfate or Chloride (with complete analysis) 9.00 7.00 5.00
7 Protein 21.00 18.00 15.00
8 Pungency (Onion – Pyruvic Acid) 50.00 45.00 39.00
9 Sugar (Brix) 13.00 12.00 11.00
Note: Payment Due at the time of processing.
VEGETABLE, COTTON & ROW CROP PETIOLE TESTING CAN RESULT IN MAXIMUM ECONOMIC YIELDS.
RELIABLE PETIOLE TESTING DEPENDS UPON:

Knowing how to take samples. Making field observations is MOST IMPORTANT. (See ASK THE PLANT ® Leaf / Stem Sampling Instructions)

TPSL pioneered the Nitrate monitoring program to include mineral and micronutrients that are essential for BETTER recommendations.

A reliable laboratory with experienced consultants. (E.K. Chandler, CPAg/SSc originally started petiole testing in Texas at Texas Soil Laboratory (now Texas Plant & Soil Lab) in 1964.)

Proper interpretations of findings and recommendations established by experienced Agronomists.
We offer you any part of our complete program, tailored to fit your specific needs.
A SINGLE SAMPLE DURING PEAK FRUITING CAN GIVE A GOOD EVALUATION FOR FUTURE PLANS
OF THE NUTRITIONAL STATUS NEEDED FOR MAXIMUM ECONOMIC PROFITS.
SEASON PROGRAM PACKAGE -- For samples sent to the lab: With interpretations and recommendations, Nitrate and Phosphate plus two mineral and micronutrients, a field consultation, available by telephone:
Dryland 6 samples short season ---------- $ 272.00 Irrigated 8 samples full season ---------- $ 340.00
FULL SERVICE PROGRAM -- Texas Plant & Soil Lab will take samples on a scheduled and systematic basis. N and P determined each time, plus at least two mineral and micronutrients. (Normally covers 8 tests during season, extra billed per volume discount.)
-- Each test station, weekly ( through growing season ---------- $ 415.00
-- Test station areas range from 40-100 acres
-- Volume discount 6 - 10 stations 10 %
-- Volume discount 11+ stations 20 %
Payment: 1/2 due at start of service. Balance due at Harvest.
(Cost is equivalent to 8-15 pounds of lint cotton per acre or a carton of produce)
(Cost ------------------- Average per acre $ 4.00 - 12.50)
**

sparkafire said:

Sugars relating to plant functions for maximum economic production.
Texas Plant & Soil Lab, Inc., Texas Plant & Soil Lab (Home)

Click to expand...

I know this firm all too well and Medina who sells molasses and other crap. They're a bunch of snake oil, environmental wackos that will sell you a box of rocks.

Soil test? Only $55 as opposed to TX A&M's $15.

If it sounds to good to be true, it is.

UB

Uncle Ben said:

I know this firm all too well. They're a bunch of environmental wackos that will sell you a box of rocks. Soil test? Only $60 as opposed to TX A&M's $15.

If it sounds to good to be true, it is.

UB

Click to expand...

Could not agree with you more.......

The more confusing they can be as they sell their hype, the more people will buy into it. AN, Humboldt, canna, Texas Soil Labs.....all cut from the same mold.

Wow 'em with bullshit, Texas style.

Uncle Ben said:

The more confusing they can be as they sell their hype, the more people will buy into it. AN, Humboldt, canna, Texas Soil Labs.....all cut from the same mold.

Wow 'em with bullshit, Texas style.

Click to expand...

LOL is that not AN's style sell the sizzle not the steak. Hype it up to make it seem like the best when in reality it is just ok.

Uncle Ben said:

I know this firm all too well and Medina who sells molasses and other crap. They're a bunch of snake oil, environmental wackos that will sell you a box of rocks.

Soil test? Only $55 as opposed to TX A&M's $15.

If it sounds to good to be true, it is.

UB

Click to expand...

Good to know UB any thoughts on the adding foliar sugar at certain times to make shorter nodes and excess fruit?

sparkafire said:

Good to know UB any thoughts on the adding foliar sugar at certain times to make shorter nodes and excess fruit?

Click to expand...

Sugar is not a PGR. If sugar had any merit, it would be sold as a fertilizer. No solid, commercial horticulturist uses sugar on his plants in any form or fashion.

UB

Uncle Ben said:

Sugar is not a PGR. If sugar had any merit, it would be sold as a fertilizer. No solid, commercial horticulturist uses sugar on his plants in any form or fashion.

UB

Click to expand...

youre mistaken. Sugar comes in many forms and it is used in both horticulure and agriculture. A pgr is not the same as a fertilizer. your post has syntax problems and incorrect informatio your dismissive tone is a bonus!

testiclees said:

youre mistaken. Sugar comes in many forms and it is used in both horticulure and agriculture.

Click to expand...

Farmers dont give carrots candy lol

testiclees said:

your dismissive tone is a bonus!

Click to expand...

What a first post, welcome to the madhouse AKA RIU!!

testiclees said:

youre mistaken. Sugar comes in many forms and it is used in both horticulure and agriculture. A pgr is not the same as a fertilizer. your post has syntax problems and incorrect informatio your dismissive tone is a bonus!

Click to expand...

SIRGANJA's new sockpuppet?

testiclees said:

youre mistaken. Sugar comes in many forms and it is used in both horticulure and agriculture. A pgr is not the same as a fertilizer. your post has syntax problems and incorrect informatio your dismissive tone is a bonus!

Click to expand...

Sir Ganja it's spelled information. And talk about poor sentence structure! Be careful throwing stones when you are in a glass house....