Well N A, The Tankless Water Heater is the Bomb!

Based on your luck so far? Lol. Seriously though, it should be fine. Your bathtub probably weighs just as much. Sounds like the best bet would be basement and a better pump.

Where am I going to get a better pump? I spent some time checking online and I can't find anything with a higher head that isn't $400+. It goes from 0-26 feet of head, to pumps with hundreds of feet of head for major applications.

Just go buy your weed.

legallyflying said:

Just go buy your weed.

Click to expand...

for reals

Well my line is not clogged and the pump is delivering more than 6L/min up to the level where the heater is. I don't know if that's adequate pressure, but I would assume so. If it's a 6L/min heater, and it's getting 6L/min, why would it not run?

This is a personal mission at this point. I have far too much invested in this to not see it through.

It's gonna depend where you put that barrel. If it's near a bearing wall you could get away with more load than if it was placed in the center of the room.

As for the regular bathtub, they are typically 42 gallons to the bottom of the overflow. However with that, the weight is distributed over twice the area.

They also put specific support beams in for a tub. They never anticipated me putting a tub upstairs. I can put the barrels close to a load bearing wall, but not directly over it. I have bigger problems to worry about if 900 pounds is going to cave my ceiling.

6L is what 1.5 galons? Seems a little weak. But then after running 26' head and unknown straight run what will it really be? Brings to mind my propane run to the house. its a 100'. where it plugs into house it needs a pump to keep the the flow pressure in range. I know you have NG so maybe it dont matter? either way when you start running all this head and distance to a simple hot water showerr burner you are asking for it. I believe my pump is best suited for our app but only time will tell for sure. These things are made for this kind of distance http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUC4gGCYsps&feature=related

your specific project is very ambitious. Not sure if I would attempt what you have. I understand the personal part of it very well but you got some serious dynamics going on for a little portable shower water heater. tanks are always an option....

What size are your floor joists? Making a small platform that distributes the weight across 3-4 joists would be helpful. I have a rain barrel outside that sits a top 3/4" old growth boards. It took about 5 years for it to slowly deform them enough to require replacement.

About head, I'm curious if running a loop that gets primed with water as your line in to your heater would make any difference. The weight of the water might equalize the head. This loop is independent from the line out from heater to rez.

boomdawg said:

6L is what 1.5 galons? Seems a little weak. But then after running 26' head and unknown straight run what will it really be? Brings to mind my propane run to the house. its a 100'. where it plugs into house it needs a pump to keep the the flow pressure in range. I know you have NG so maybe it dont matter? either way when you start running all this head and distance to a simple hot water showerr burner you are asking for it. I believe my pump is best suited for our app but only time will tell for sure. These things are made for this kind of distance http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUC4gGCYsps&feature=related

your specific project is very ambitious. Not sure if I would attempt what you have. I understand the personal part of it very well but you got some serious dynamics going on for a little portable shower water heater. tanks are always an option....

Click to expand...

It's rated for 26.3 feet of head, the actual vertical distance is about 20 feet. It is pretty much directly below the heater in the basement. The actual flow rate being delivered to the heater is greater than 6L/min. I don't think the NG pressure is an issue. It's a half inch flexible pipe and it's 36' long.

The project was very ambitious, but the pay off was supposed to be maintenance free co2 generation at a fraction the cost of buying compressed co2. All the hard work and equipment should theoretically pay for itself with increased yield, and in the long run be cheaper than any other co2 method.

I had the god damn thing running fine for 3 days before it went all to shit with a clog. Now even with the clog gone it seems to not be working.

rosecitypapa said:

What size are your floor joists? Making a small platform that distributes the weight across 3-4 joists would be helpful. I have a rain barrel outside that sits a top 3/4" old growth boards. It took about 5 years for it to slowly deform them enough to require replacement.

About head, I'm curious if running a loop that gets primed with water as your line in to your heater would make any difference. The weight of the water might equalize the head. This loop is independent from the line out from heater to rez.

Click to expand...

I don't know I can't see the joists. It's floored on top and ceilinged on bottom. I was thinking some kind of wooden platform to distribute the weight to a larger foot print and cover more joists, but I didn't really think it through to completion yet. I checked craigslist and there are a bunch of 55 gallon barrels on sale for between $5-25. I shoulda checked there first before buying a garbage can. I also use a 32 gallon garbage can as a water res in the actual grow room.

I don't understand what you mean about a second loop.

I don't think the setup for additionall head would work. You would have to use an external, inline pump. Ya know, harbor frieght does have a special on a 1 hp external pump. It looks fucking burly.

guy incognito said:

I don't know I can't see the joists.

I don't understand what you mean about a second loop.

Click to expand...

Drill a hole in the ceiling below that you can spackle over and use a clothes hanger to determine the joist height. As for the loop thing, I could explain it but on second thought, I don't think it would work and just add to the frustration. Your specs are matched, sounds like a defective unit to me.

try that inline pump LF rec'd frpm HF. you can overnight it and still be hundreds less than that other pump you mentioned. just make sure it specs out to your head needs.
do what Rose says too. find out what size joists you have then you can make the call. if they are 2x12 youre golden , if they are 2x10 you need to calculate your dead weight loading, if 2x8 (i seriously doubt) forget it. and spread the load over the span of numerous joists. you can just throw down a number of 2x4's or get fancy use 2x6's on end and block it and sheet it.

That should get u there. the biggy is the inline pump.
if it still dont work send the unit back.
and use Floramite for those hairy ass gnomes!

ALSO - get a stud finder and check your joist layout from the drywall side (not throught the flooring). They can only see like a 1/2" maybe 3/4". Your flooring alone with sheeting will be more than 1/2" guanteed.. if that dont work than drill a hole or 2..

what about that inline jacuzzi pump someone posted a few pages back. I see them on ebay for under 200

Ok, serious question: you weren't held back a couple grades as a kid were you?

I mean, Jesus Christ dude. It's a water heater for an RV, not a lunar landing module

The flow through the unit is not the same as the flow needed to trigger the burner. There is likely a minimum psi rating for the water pressure needed. As I said ten fucking pages ago, you have way to much head, you need a serious, heavy duty pump to raise water 26 feet and still have good pressure.

I could set it up exactly how it was in the closet, with a different pump hooked up, and an overflow drain to the basement. Then get some rain barrels and link them together in the basement, and use the pump to just exchange water with the small reservoir upstairs. Then it would work perfect and I could cool the small res in the hot closet by circulating 165 gallons of water from the basement.

legallyflying said:

Ok, serious question: you weren't held back a couple grades as a kid were you?

I mean, Jesus Christ dude. It's a water heater for an RV, not a lunar landing module

The flow through the unit is not the same as the flow needed to trigger the burner. There is likely a minimum psi rating for the water pressure needed. As I said ten fucking pages ago, you have way to much head, you need a serious, heavy duty pump to raise water 26 feet and still have good pressure.

Click to expand...

More power pump does not equal more head. The harbor freight 1/2 hp and 1 hp models have less head than the 1/4 hp.

I didn't know the rating on that pump, I just saw it on sale for dirt cheap the other day.

In my experience, better weed (and the right company) = better head

I like the loop design! Kudos whoever thought of that! Im guessing you are keeping all the loop pumps and operation separate from the gen operation I hope. Now you can have a small rez upstairs!
Now dont do all that without getting the right inline pump....

So what size joists do you got going on? I guess they were small so youre going through with the loop idea?

High school grad or GED those are some perty computer graphic pictures! I wish i could do that!