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  1. #201
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    All else being equal an easier way to accomplish this is to increase your canopy size. How can you increase your canopy size? Think in 3 dimensions. So in other words Vertical grow. When you bare the light (no reflector) the problem is your loose some intensity. So how do you correct that problem? Well you bring the plants closer. Since the heat is less since (in therory you get 2X's the light/heat in one direction if you use a reflector (under perfect reflection, which doesnt happen but for illustration purposes lets pretend).

    Also SOG is probably the way you want to go since in order to fill a vertical canopy its going to take a bit longer so with more plants you can make up for this and cut down on veg time. Also you want some overlapping of the stem with the plant below it so there is no wasted canopy. so you dont really want the plant under each other but you want some overlap since the base of the stem doesnt produce any bud.



    If anyone thinks this is impossible: Go here --> Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical 46oz 1 600W light. Granted Heath does a lot of things right and his strain was created for this kind of production, but you get the general idea. The funny thing is how low maintenance he makes his design, its easier to run than many ppl making 1/2 the production. There are many different designs that can accomplish the same thing, so this is not the only one. An interesting solution would be one that can expand/contract so you can easily change the distance to the light to accomodate different strains in different grows.

    Once you have the growing down it becomes just an engineering problem and a rather easy one. Grab a light meter see where you are placing your plants now and how many lumens they are getting, then rehang the bulb vertically and go around the light and try to get similar lumens and the shape of the canopy pretty much draws itself. Once you tune this for your veg period/amount of strech for your strain its should be rather simple. If you really wanted to maximize I would imagine a combination between SOG and ScrOG would be a reasonable solution if you wanted to deal with the whole screen issue, but quite clearly its doable with only SOG. Just some observations I have made, I dont really care to debate it, take the information or dont.

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrduke View Post
    BUMP

    so whats up pahudson how are you going to accomplish this??
    I have taken into consideration many of the opinions given. I have 1 light with 9 plants, topped a few times covering a 5x5 area. I have some smaller plants covering the same sq footage, but there are 16 and 25 of them. So I am trying different configurations out. To be honest I really like the way the 9 plants are looking. Because they were topped a few times they are very bushy with tons of tops on them and they are completely covering the whole 25 sq ft. They are rocking with thick stalks and lots of green leaves. Another observation is that they are taking in quite a bit of water, basically every other day because they are "older" plants. It makes me feel like they are well established and capable of producing some good weight. Of course time will tell. In terms of air, I have installed an inline fan and I have it coming on once per hour for 15 mins to change the air. All in all growth is good, all of the plants appear healthy and green. Cant wait for the final verdict. As a side note, I have completely eliminated thrips with DE. This stuff is unbelievable in so many ways, effectiveness and how damn cheap it is. I had been battling thrips for probably 6 months and after dusting the plants, dirt, floors and cracks there are absolutely none left. I can't find a living insect anywhere in there. Great stuff, just thought I would pass it along.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by thedude27 View Post
    All else being equal an easier way to accomplish this is to increase your canopy size. How can you increase your canopy size? Think in 3 dimensions. So in other words Vertical grow. When you bare the light (no reflector) the problem is your loose some intensity. So how do you correct that problem? Well you bring the plants closer. Since the heat is less since (in therory you get 2X's the light/heat in one direction if you use a reflector (under perfect reflection, which doesnt happen but for illustration purposes lets pretend).

    Also SOG is probably the way you want to go since in order to fill a vertical canopy its going to take a bit longer so with more plants you can make up for this and cut down on veg time. Also you want some overlapping of the stem with the plant below it so there is no wasted canopy. so you dont really want the plant under each other but you want some overlap since the base of the stem doesnt produce any bud.



    If anyone thinks this is impossible: Go here --> Heaths Flooded Tube Vertical 46oz 1 600W light. Granted Heath does a lot of things right and his strain was created for this kind of production, but you get the general idea. The funny thing is how low maintenance he makes his design, its easier to run than many ppl making 1/2 the production. There are many different designs that can accomplish the same thing, so this is not the only one. An interesting solution would be one that can expand/contract so you can easily change the distance to the light to accomodate different strains in different grows.

    Once you have the growing down it becomes just an engineering problem and a rather easy one. Grab a light meter see where you are placing your plants now and how many lumens they are getting, then rehang the bulb vertically and go around the light and try to get similar lumens and the shape of the canopy pretty much draws itself. Once you tune this for your veg period/amount of strech for your strain its should be rather simple. If you really wanted to maximize I would imagine a combination between SOG and ScrOG would be a reasonable solution if you wanted to deal with the whole screen issue, but quite clearly its doable with only SOG. Just some observations I have made, I dont really care to debate it, take the information or dont.
    Thank you for posting, this is basically what I have been doing and unfortunately, with the strain I have they just grow all over each other and some plants actually die off. 9 is working fantastic right now. 16 even seems like its too many for me with this strain. I do appreciate the advice, this thread has a lot of great information in it and just because your opinion might not be for me, it could help someone else. Good stuff.

  4. #204
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    No problem just throwing some ideas out there.

    Have you tried going 12/12 from clone with no veg instead of vegging to 2 ft? maybe an idea for another grow or mix in a plant or 2 with this method next time and see if it creates something that might work for you if you dont want to commit to it all at once. Take the no veg ones and put the pot on a pedistal to match the canopy height, also with this method you might be able to reduce the pot size or go with a skinny deeper pot to get more per sq ft.

  5. #205
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    2 lb per 1000 h.p.s light is good very good,but all the grow's that i have evr seen home and abroad all have one thing in common and that is just the one plant vegging for week's and week's till she is big enougth to throw her weight around.But there are a few thing's that you may want to think about before doing one of these one plant big yeild grow's and that is they take on average 6/8 week of veg then 9/14 week of flowering i persanaly would much rather do a few more plants,and veg for 4 week getting the plant's up to the 1/1/2ft range and then flower for 8 week.This is the only way to grow 4 harvest a year,do not try to beat the 2 lb per palnt just add more lights and grow more plant's.By doing this you are always gonna have good smoke to hand just be careful not to get into doing too many 20 plant's is about ok each one yeilding round about min 9 ounce dry max 13/14.But one thing that i did take from the clip on you tube in the 2lb challange was advanced nutes are by far the best on the market and i aint used anything to match this brand yet peace ....tyke.....................................

  6. #206
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    beds make a big difference because your shit can veg way bigger.. if ur gunna use 16. i may wanna flip ur lights at just over a foot tall... the less plants you have in the space the more veg time they deserve... frankly i've had wayyyyyyy better buds when i've used less plants and i've yielded more...if u put too many plants in you will end up with a shit ton of small buds....when all the weight is in big buds....if u want real suggestions i would space the plants apart farther in 5 gallon pots and do them in rows of 3x3... 9 plants ...give um an extra week to veg...dont forget to lolipop... also i remove all the fan leaves on the main stock except the crown.. im not getting two a light.. but im getting more than 1 a light with 600s

  7. #207
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    I grow sog 32 plants under a 1000w and I hover between just under and just over 2 lbs per light. IMO sog is the way to go if you really wanna get over 2lbs. I think all ways of growing could prob put out over 2lbs per 1000w if really dialed in and perfeted.

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by theGREENmonster333 View Post
    I grow sog 32 plants under a 1000w and I hover between just under and just over 2 lbs per light. IMO sog is the way to go if you really wanna get over 2lbs. I think all ways of growing could prob put out over 2lbs per 1000w if really dialed in and perfeted.
    I'm curious... what are you growing, and how tall are they when you flip?
    I've done 20 GDP under 1000, and seem to average about 1.25lb (flipped at about 12").

  9. #209
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    Quote Originally Posted by pahudson View Post
    Ok how many would you put under a 1000 watt hps?
    I use a 5 gallon perlite bucket. Density of 6 or 8, depending on which strain im growing. CO2, good airflow, temps and humidity under control, light mover, 1000w hortilux super, very hi water usage, moderate yielding strains.

    I also have a 12-12 stage 1 light zone whereas I can boost the density up to 18 for about 2-3 weeks, which increases the overall yield per 1000w. After the plants get as high as the tomato cage, they get final prune, bent and tied up and then go under the stage 2 maturing lights for 4-6 weeks.

    Lastly is the finishing few days whereas I take them out from under the intense light and into areas which only get partial side lighting. I also let them dry out for those 2-3 days, kinda like a final ripening stage.

    I calculate my average about 30oz/56days/1000w or roughly .85g/watt.

    When I started growing, I was .35g/watt. Strain selection, light movers, better root management, CO2, bulb upgrade - in that order - where the big improvements.

  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Leothwyn View Post
    I'm curious... what are you growing, and how tall are they when you flip?
    I've done 20 GDP under 1000, and seem to average about 1.25lb (flipped at about 12").
    Those numbers were with a few different strains like OGK and PK. You definately need a real bomb clone or mother to get to the 2lb mark. I flip between 8-12" 10 is what I like. I think you might do better with some more plants. 1.25 hmm, definately find some solid mothers, use CO2 if youre not using CO2 you will not hit the 2lb mark. High nutrient ppm and high CO2 concentration there are schedules and measurements and what not all over RIU. You really just need to have every little bit of your space maxed out and dialed in, doing as much as you can. You can't skip on anything. And as I said a high yielding strain is important.

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