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#31
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That's what it is CG. You asked, I told you.
http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_...DIST_NR=058044 UB
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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages" |
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#32
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Ok, well thanks again. My crop will come off in 12 days and I will start introducing a strong bio feed program than. I maybe came across wrong, but I cut back on my plant stacks (frets) and now use NPK Carbload and Vitamax. I use a bloom booster in 3-4 week (once). I usually get a lock-up if I use that product. So, inturn, I would not use the product and should use overdrive around week 5-instead of the bloom booster 0-50-33.
When you use your alaska 5-1-1 fish mix, is that gonna be fine with those ratio's of (N) to be applied in my feed program? And will the salts of my feed program kill the organic's? |
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#33
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I have been doing research on these things and by and large most are scams. I agree 100%. This is why when I shop for bio-inoculants I use the following guideline: It is necessary to avoid all products sold at the hydro shop or hydro publications that seem to target marijuana growers. To get a good product you need to find someone who specializes in micro organisms not pot growing supplies. The best you will do through pot growing suppliers is get a marked up and or diluted version of the other real stuff, or bogus stuff. I get my spores from fungi.com, the owner of this company has written a lot of books and done a lot of research in the field. Most of what this place sells is mushroom cultivation products, these guys know there fungi, and the product works. |
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#34
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As to the 5-1-1 messing up your n-p-k ratio. It may or it may not. When P and K salt levels are low, as they are in my outdoor vegetable garden, the high N in the fish fert feeds the bacteria which in turn make more P and K available to the plant. So while I do not add much P and K the P and K absorbed by my plants is quite high. In your case you are using a high P and K soluble nute, so your plants do not need the fungi to get P and K, the levels are already sky high. In my indoor marijuana garden I use the fungi for only 1 thing "Pathogen Control"!!!! My plants are already given a 600ppm strength salt nute, so they do not need any more nutes, thy grow at 100% with no bacteria or fungi. It saves me a lot of money over H2O2. Also the H2O2 is kind of nasty to work with, burns my skin, stains cloths, fire accelerant... With H2O2 for pathogen control if I ran out of H2O2 I had only a few days to get more. Also the smell is nice. I would get grey mold on the debris on the floor and I would get black mold on the walls, had to clean that with bleach. After about 9 months of no H2O2 except for clones and seedlings and beneficial microbes the grow room is much less moldy and nasty. Also if I run short on cash I can grow the fungi and use less. What is your goal? These goals are achievable: 1) save money on nutes 2) pathogen control and grow environment conditioning This goal is not achievable: 1) faster plant growth in the presence of strong non organic nutes Most people want the last unachievable goal and are disappointed |
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#35
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I don't know about you, but I don't own an electron microscope and do not have a lab to scientifically evaluate ANY product's merit when it comes to fungi this and that, and to take a vendor's ad for face value is stupidity in its finest. They are motivated to make money, period, and accordingly will tell you whatever they think you want to hear. I will give alot of these products a fair shake and do so on a commercial basis. Quote:
Regarding organic purists, they represent a cult to me, just a feel-good group that values idealogy over facts. They have no way of confirming the claims. This stuff isn't tested and regulated by a non-partisan group of professionals ya know. UB
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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages" |
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#36
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The only hard science to me is the academic research that does use a control group. The kind of comparisons I make like "my vegetable garden is much healthier than my neighbors" is totally devoid of real science. Maybe my garden is healthier for other reasons. I was suggesting doing a real experiment with a control group earlier in this thread. Hopefully some people will join me and we can do a little real science. I am not part of the organic cult you speak of. I do know of its existence. Its a pain to talk to those folks some times. I think we all do this trying different products and have some that work and we stick with those. For me the bio-inoculation method works, and saves money over the H2O2 sterilization method that also worked. |
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#37
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Thanks, I will be sure to go purchase this today!
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#39
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Sail on, UB
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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages" |
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