Just a few comments - the endo/ecto hyphae can not be seen by the naked eye. If you're using a rich organic mix that has compost or a manure product in it, the native microbes in your mix will "eat them suckas"..... stuff you put in, too much of a good thing is many times not only expensive and is big waste, but if it makes you feel good, then go for it. Remember, plants grow well under conditions that they are getting the right salts in the right ratio, essential nutrients. There are some beneficial nutrients that might enhance disease resistance and such.......

Bacteria are found in abundance in the soils of grass fields, prairie plains..... fungi amongst trees, forests.

Have fun,
UB

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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
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well, as to the naked eye their man, lol, no, but we can see the rest of the world clinging to it. I got many a photo right here of a nice ecto fungi web as evidenced by the larger dirt structure connected to the root ball. I mean they pick up the plant and the non myco plant is shown next to a myco innoculated plant and they look drastically different in the root area. The soil web is "there". Best explained by a googled pic. You can see both in this fashion I beleive.

I nice fungi to bacteria ratio is a good bet for a big annual like mj. It is time that predicts weather it is a fungi or bacteria dominated soil. Plants in the forest are older. The plant attracts what it will. There is no doubt a good myco and bacteria rich soil will help the plant. And it is free. Just bubble.

Seriously it is more than disease that these microrganisms help with. This is standard science.

As to killing off what I add. Not really sure that they would. As they would most likely love a fresh innoculation. Most likely in an indoor mj setup the myco is dead due to salts and P overdose. Same as bacteria. For the lazy, such as msyelf, the benefits outway the free or 12 dollar startup cost. I am finding although with the increased help from the bacteria care would have to be taken not tip burn. Not by much, and really that is awesome! I am finding as it is saving me a ton of money. Way less than all chem route. A lot less fert is neeeded.

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I use this stuff from fungi.com and along with a little fish fertilizer to feed the spores I purchased in coco coir. The coco coir comes in a brick that expands with water. I mix the salt nutes, fish fertilizer, and spores in the water before dropping my compacted brick in that soup to soak it up.

In 7 days I can see the fungi strands in the coco! Not with a microscope, just by looking and not even from very close up, I will see patches of white fungi in my medium. Also I can transplant sooner, without the stuff from fungi.com if I transplant too soon, the plants root system will not be big enough to hold the medium together. With the stuff from fungi.com the medium pops out of the container as one big mass that hold together. The other thing I am 100% sure of that is impacted by the addition of beneficial spores changes the smell of my medium when dispose of my used coco. Without the spores the coco sometimes had a rotten or manure like smell, but with the spores the medium has a nice earthy smell.
Uncle Ben, do you not believe me?

One last point: A few years back I was reading about mycorrhizal fungus and organic hydroponics and I got a bunch of random organic products and spores and it was a huge disaster. It took some time to realize I needed to not add a lot of random stuff to my root zone. I think adding mycorrhizal spores is often done with a lot of random organic stuff and this is just a bad idea.

i do the smell test for root health when i harvest i tear open the root ball from a harvested hempy or soil grow it has a pleasant earthy clean smell. if there is any stagnant rotten or sulphur like smell thats bad and also limp or discolored roots is also an indicator of poor root health. i do feel additional funguses and bacterial populations are beneficial and at worst do no harm.

Sure that's myco, or is it some other stuff? Perhaps you're seeing the mat although you did say you see fungi filaments..... don't know and it really doesn't matter. If it works for you then that's what counts.

http://www.soilhealth.com/fungi/

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PLANT MOISTURE STRESS aka leaf edge/tip curling - symptoms and solutions
Note- Due to some technicality, I can not reply to "New visitor messages"

In regards to benefical bacteria I fully agree with on person's post here that MJ like bacteria more so than mycorr. If one gets into a pinch and does not want to spend a crapload of money of those sold (and they are expensive) then try what I did. WAIT, better yet...send me $5.00 and I will send you 5oz of Benefical Bacteria and when I run out I'm gonna run to the grocery store and get some more Rid-X. Yelp, that's right the same product ppl use for the septic tank and it's $6.00 for just over 10oz. It's all benefical bacteria with molasses. I've used it a few times and have not seen any less growth than my homemade bacteria. Matter of fact when I brew my tea I always add a TBSP of Rid-X.....

i would assume its similar to organic digesters found in products for ponds and the like. needless to say there useful but contain no myco funguses so that would have to be sourced elsewhere.

I e-mailed fungi.com and there stuff has 1,000,000,000 CFU's per gram.

for a good cheap product I would say rooters is a good deal. In fact all the myco products look good, and in fact if you are using soil like light wariior it should have your myco. Your plant will feed them carbs and stuff and it should all work as decent soil health. However we are growing inside in containers and also some hi P applications. Fungi cannot tolerate anyhtng P over 10 so that settles that. But withthe addition of fungi and bacteria we dont really need that much fert. That is one purpose of ading the beasties. They make full use of all the fert. None is lost, both with bigger root zones and more bacteria to feed plant. The myco gives a bigger root zone. Our variety should atract endo, but maybe it would take some ecto as we grow it so long. I asked the master gardenr of SD and she said to keep experimenting but nothing should hurt. Obscure thing to ask. Lol.

So rooters, then guardian, then humbolt, then the advanced is how I looked at it. Rooters is probably good enough but who knows how well they control the quality. Alsp the weights and varites change. I looked and it looked you get what ou pay for, but rooters looked ok. So yeah, but I would add some, man look for pics of plants with and without on google. They are concinving

Oh yeah, rootersi si 10 bucks

oh yeah, in my soil web manual those strands of myco are good. Add that or better yet grow in it it says. I read to use some as a topdress to soil.

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I spell fyne!

uncle ben I got this stuff from the health store. Its called root zone by Down to Earth Distributors.

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