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  #441    
Old 03-02-2009, 09:11 PM
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personally im not sorry born2killspam is leaving....


no offense dude..... but for some reason i just dont like you... got me all paranoid about getting something for a plant for fuck sakes..... WHICH I HAVE FOUND.... and no its not a watched item its made for plants....

like i said no offense tho
your probably a cool guy and shit... and i normaly dont go out of my way to cause shit on a forumthread, but you guys are being assholes.... how would you feel if i came to your thread just to say you suck im unsubscribing... i mean what an ass.... as for the its been done damn strait but i didnt see em. most shits been done your only like the 10000000000000000000 th person to grow a marijuana plant. im sick of nay sayers.



peace
jester88

sorry for being an ass but can we move along please....


p.s dont ya just wish ya could reach through the computer screen an slap some ppl in the face....
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#Making hash, Oil, Tincture, THC Pills and Butter #A MUST READ!!! THC percentages and more...
# Planting Times & Grow Guide # Breeding Seeds
everything i say on these forums is a lie.. Its ALL made up and cant be used against me in any way

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  #442    
Old 03-02-2009, 09:35 PM
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JEZ......your a champ !
Your head and heart in the right space !~
Ignorence is there prorogitive.... both have no valueable threads for information both just leach onto other peoples work and thread and crit, ad pull apart... though they will never put forward a valueable theory or idea of there own.....

If you dont like what we are on about .... no need to post just f@#k off......

I enjoy the intellectual value of the people who have subscribed here, there are some smart people here..... who not nessecerly have growing experience but Common sense and basic knowledge..which i think, bring more value than an so called old 36yr growing vetrien who is still experimenting with root hormone.lol.. and have proven to me that some of them KNOW alot more than me.... and they are on there 2nd grow etc....

If you need to be an arse....dont ...... because your going to look foolish here !

Last edited by eza82; 03-02-2009 at 10:31 PM..
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  #443    
Old 03-03-2009, 06:15 PM
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subscribed!
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  #444    
Old 03-03-2009, 07:42 PM
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subscribed!
Welcome.... Mindphuk.....
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  #445    
Old 03-03-2009, 07:45 PM
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this is something i have just started to experiment with !


I recieved a PACK OF THIS STUFF with an order of RED CLOVER im also experimenting with for phytoestrogens......... So i will use it on a few seeds ive got !AM.





Rhizobium

inoculate seed before planting?

inoculated with the proper Rhizobium bacteria. (black chalky looking shit )

Inoculation is easy and inexpensive and provides good assurance that plants will fix nitrogen. EXPLANATION:
IE:seeds can be inoculated with live rhizobium bacteria (Rhizobium meliloti), . The only time producers do not need to inoculate is when planting preinoculated seed before its expiration date.
In some fields with recent histories of alfalfa or sweetclover, alfalfa may not benefit from inoculation, but it is difficult to identify those fields before planting. After emergence, inoculation is risky, difficult, and expensive.

Many strains of rhizobia are present in soil, and some may form nodules on alfalfa roots, but not all nodules fix nitrogen. Effective N-fixing nodules on alfalfa are generally pink to deep red on the inside and can fix several hundred pounds of nitrogen per acre each season.
Specific rhizobium bacteria for alfalfa assure effective nitrogen fixation by new stands. Together they convert atmospheric nitrogen into a form available to plants if effective nodules are present. Nodules are the result of an infection by an effective strain of bacteria (Rhizobium meliloti).
Inoculating alfalfa seed: Inoculation is nothing more than mixing bacteria with the seed before planting. Dry inoculant can be mixed with seed, but it is difficult to assure good mixing and to avoid much of the inoculant from falling on the ground some distance from the seed. Certain brands of alfalfa seed are pre-inoculated (with or without lime coating) and do not need additional inoculant.
Stickers help nodule forming bacteria adhere to seed. Excellent commercial preparations of stickers and rhizobium are available from inoculant manufacturers. For best results, follow the manufacturer's instructions.
An alternative to commercial stickers is to use milk or a water-based solution containing 10 to 20 % table syrup or sugar. One pint of the sticky mixture provides sufficient sticker for a bushel of seed. Moisten all seeds (in a concrete mixer, if possible), then add the inoculant. If the mixture is too moist, add more inoculant, finely ground limestone, or powdery dry soil.
Shelf life of inoculants: Expiration dates appear on inoculant packets and pre-inoculated seed bags. The date indicates when most of the bacteria will have died under normal storage conditions. Properly inoculated seeds have thousands of bacteria per seed; however, only one bacterium is needed to infest a seedling's root. Bacteria on seed in hot soil die, a few at a time. Nevertheless, even after 2 or 3 weeks, there are usually enough live bacteria remaining to be effective.
Heat, direct sunlight, and drying are all detrimental to the survival of rhizobia. For this reason, it is important to store inoculant packets in a cool place (refrigerate if possible). Even with the large amounts of rhizobia initially applied, many bacteria may die during prolonged storage.
If there are questions about the viability of bacteria on inoculated seed due to the length of storage or storage conditions, then seed should be reinoculated. Do not use water to moisten lime-coated seed. Fresh inoculant can be applied with mineral oil as a sticker. About 1/2 ounce of mineral oil per pound of seed is sufficient.
Cost/benefit of inoculation: Inoculant is normally included with the higher priced seed. Cost for preinoculated seed is 5 to 10¢/lb more than comparable raw seed. Inoculant costs about $1/A, if applied by the producer.
All legumes (including alfalfa) can establish and survive without nitrogen-fixing bacteria, but plants cannot fix nitrogen. This means that without added nitrogen, plants will have a yellowish appearance and yields will be low. With high rates of nitrogen fertilizer application, uninoculated stands can be productive.
If nitrogen fertilizer is applied to alfalfa for normal growth and quality, 200 - 400 lb. actual N/A would be required, costing $50 - $200/A. Since inoculation is easy and cheap, it is probably the best insurance farmers can buy.

can i use it at any time ??
there is at least one commercial bacterial preparation that can be mixed with water and sprayed on plants to improve inoculation with rhizobia.
During dry or cold (below 500 F) soil conditions, rhizobia may not grow and multiply normally. Slow growth of rhizobia is also caused by acid or infertile soil. If fertilizer and lime were not applied according to soil tests, the materials should be applied as soon as possible and may alleviate the problem with poor inoculation.
The cost and effectiveness of inoculation after planting is highly variable because of the array of conditions that can cause poor inoculation. Rhizobia must come in contact with root hairs before they dry out or they will not be effective; consequently, weather conditions are critical for this application.


http://alfalfa.okstate.edu/pub/stand-949/seed.htm











here are some current recommendations made to me by some pro`s in hort industry:






LIQUID LEAD



Grow Hard's Liquid Lead contains a special formula precisely designed for the heaviest harvest. A unique blend of organic enzyme activators, vitamins, essential animo acids and carbohydrates that will unleash the full flowering potential of your favourite plants or herbs.


Liquid Lead optimises harvest weight, promotes vigorous growth, enhances flavour and taste and increases health of flowering plants in your hydroponic system.




PRO-PK PROFESSIONAL POTASH



Superior Weight Booster


When you initiate flowering there is a massive surge in the plant’s requirement for potassium. Lowered potassium levels will simply slow down a plants growth rate to match the available potassium. More available potassium equals more flowers. Supplement your nutrient solution with PROFESSIONAL POTASH for increased potassium levels and maximum finished weight. Why don’t nutrient manufacturers add all of this extra potassium in their nutrient mix? They can’t for two reasons. The most important is that everybody’s system is different. Nutrients are made to cope with a wide range of conditions and could easily become out of balance. Problems could occur because hydroponic systems are managed by electrical conductivity rather than chemical analysis. Adding the extra potassium is really fine tuning. The second problem is a chemical one. Concentrated nutrients start to behave differently as the concentration increases and can start to salt out, creating insoluble compounds that can’t be used by the plant. We recommend PROFESSIONAL POTASH as an addition to your flowering nutrient for record breaking yields. Feel the weight of a bottle of PROFESSIONAL POTASH compared to our competitors, we put more in so that you get more out of your crop. Add PROFESSIONAL POTASH to fresh water at required rate first, then add your flowering nutrient and other additives. Pure elements in ultra pure water.






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  #446    
Old 03-03-2009, 07:56 PM
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http://www.way2grow.com.au/view_product.php?p=189

did you have a look at this stuff?
im a big fan of canadian xpress
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  #447    
Old 03-03-2009, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTheNewbie View Post
http://www.way2grow.com.au/view_product.php?p=189

did you have a look at this stuff?
im a big fan of canadian xpress
I already use there ROCK juice for flower by same guys i think !....... GREEEAAATTTTT SSHHIITT!!!!!!!!! but stop growth in it tracks and just builds bud !

I might give that a go !
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  #448    
Old 03-03-2009, 08:03 PM
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Trying to keep all additives to a minimal cost.... reletive to a commercial grow or the tight grower ! like me who is jus poor all the time ! lol
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  #449    
Old 03-03-2009, 08:08 PM
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ok so here is your next quest

watch this link : http://www.boingboing.net/2008/08/12...tary-make.html

read my thread : THC vs Cannaboids

tell me how to achieve my goal

easy
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  #450    
Old 03-03-2009, 08:38 PM
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Ive seen that ....good doc... i want intrevenous!

You need gene`s that are high in CBN and CBD - easy next question LOL...
seriously, that is a motive of mine as we speak in my THC - CBD CBN - MAKE MORE USEING UVB`s/ UVA`s..CHEAP&SIMPLE.?!! thread.....
Idea of recreating enviorments is my only real theory that has gained any ground !
Genes are the key, but my project is to induce the MAX production for any gene by recreating an environment ... which i hope will give me more THC/cbn/cbd
 

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cheaper, co2, hormones, potentially, yeild

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