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  #21    
Old 05-16-2007, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holefiller View Post
I used the twisted energy saver lights in a small stereo box. Two of them at 32 or 33 watts each. I obtained about 42 grams of pretty potent bud however it was quite airy.
Fascinating!

Would love to hear more about this in more detail. What the strain was, size of area used, odour control, size of fan, temperatures and humidity levels, light colour temperature etc.
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  #22    
Old 05-16-2007, 06:39 AM
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yes that does sound fascinating. I think he may be talking wet weight. Even in the aerogarden under the flouro's those guys are only pulling a q dry weight.
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  #23    
Old 05-16-2007, 07:16 PM
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No my finished product was dry weight. Keep in mind I used 64 watts and only got 42 grams so I was still under one gram per watt but over .5 grams per watt. The strain was probably from bag seed but i am uncertain. the flower to leaf ratio wasnt as good as i would have liked. I received a clone but i would assume it was an indica sativa mix due to leaf traits and the high produced. The area used was a used stereo box roughly 3 ft high 18 inches deep and 18 inches wide. my plants were set in the box like this.

1 2
-3-
4 5

Plant #3 was my biggest producer with roughly 14 grams. the other 4 each produced about 7 grams each. lights were hung so plants 1 and 4 got one light and plants 2 and 5 got one light. this meant 3 was lit from both sides which is why it produced the most. it was also my tallest and highest quality bud. all were good but 3 was exceptional.

I also used the fermentation co2 method. i put a small tupperware bowl filled with sugar, water, "purple jk" and yeast in the box in between plants 4 and 5. I noticed a small change in leaf color but I am uncertain if it did anything extra. my feeling was "better to have it than to not have it." i refilled with a half cup of sugar every 5 or 6 days and went with new ingredients every 3 weeks since the alcohol probably killed my yeast by the 3 week period.

I used the white twisted florescent energy saver bulbs rated at 32 watts and put out the same light as a 150 watt light bulb. it was roughly 2300 lumens per light bulb. the inside of the box was covered in white stickers to reflect light. odor control was done with a lot of febreeze. i did not have a lot of money and it could be smelled but i found it effective enough. besides it was only five plants sealed inside of a box for the dark period so it wasnt overpowering. the fan size was 4 or 5 inches. you can get them at walmart for no more than ten dollars.

temperature was a problem. sealing the box with the lights on could send it well into the upper 90's but with the fan pulling air out of the top of the box and another fan pushing air into the bottom of the box it became easier to control temp not to mention make the plants stalks thicker and stronger due to the wind created by the fans. the room temperature had a lot to do with it also. i learned fast to use lights at night for flowering instead of during the day. that allowed the box to stay between 75 and 85 degrees. Humidity wasnt nearly as much of a problem. since i was using the wick method i didnt lose that much water to evaporation. my relative humidy was almost always between 30 and 50 percent.

The few complaints i do have was that the buds were very airy. a quarter once was almost 3 fingers across a ziplock baggie. i am sure that was due to not enough light. it made for good bag appeal especially because it was covered in crystals but i would have prefered more dense buds. the other problem was that the finished pot wouldnt stay lit. so i couldnt roll it. i am pretty sure this was from to much k or to little. i read that somewhere. if anyone knows what i may have done wrong i would like any tips you may have on how to fix the problem. i didnt really have an issue with stretching but i kept the lights no more than 4 inches away from the top of the tallest plants. this is a very effective method to use for a cheap box to use. i am sure that you could add your own ideas and make a better box but i found it good enough to get a decent result. odor was a small problem. using a filter would be a good addition. But for the size used " hell i could still use my closet and you could have came in opened up my closet and probably wouldnt have thought twice about the box in there or that i had five beauty's in it" it was well worth it. good stealth grow

Last edited by holefiller; 05-17-2007 at 01:47 PM..
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  #24    
Old 05-16-2007, 07:20 PM
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best i did on my 400W HOS was like ... 3-5gramms per W but i'm hammered, ...whats my name by the way??
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  #25    
Old 05-17-2007, 02:02 PM
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Holefiller

Fascinating account of your micro-grow, thanks so much for sharing it with us - I think a lot of people can learn a lot from reading this. A lot of new grower hopefuls come here asking questions about how to set up exactly this kind of stealth grow and with your permission I'd like to collate all the information you've supplied here into one file and edit it so it may be submitted to the site FAQ Section. Ideally I'd like more information about specifics, such as soil type and amendments, colour temperature of lights, what nutrients you used and what schedule etc.
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  #26    
Old 05-17-2007, 06:09 PM
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I would be honored to help newbies come up with a good first set up. Anything i can contribute to help them would be fantastic. This is the perfect setup for a first time grower because it is cheap to construct and is almost idiot proof due to the wick method. All items can be bought for under a hundred dollars and will give you enough to do many crops. probably 2 or 3 years worth. buy the lights at walmart because if they happen to go out they will exchange them for free. keep the package the bulbs come in to make it easier to exchange.

I used a stereo box for my grow room. It fits in the closet but doesnt use up all the space. If you are stealthy enough and run wires correctly no one will even be able to tell that its anything but a box. the box i used was 3 ft high 18 inches wide and 18 inches deep. I put my lights on a ballast and hung them from the inside of my box. i put the ballast on a rope so i could lower and raise the lights as necessary. I covered the inside of the box in white stickers to reflect the light. I am sure paint could be used or even mylar but i used stickers and it seemed to work fine for me. occasionally some of the stickers would yellow. i would just put new ones over the yellowing ones and problem solved.

As far as soil I used equal parts miracle grow potting soil, perlite, and vermculite "use caution when handling vermeculite". I used small 3 inch pots and took 3/8 diamerer rope about ten to 12 inches long, tied a knot in the middle of the rope and dropped the knot end into an empty pot making sure that the rope goes through the hole in the bottom of the pot to hang into the nutrient solution. the knot keeps the rope inside of the pot without slipping out of the pot. then i fill my pot with soil mix as stated above and i fill slowly curling the remaining rope around and up the pot so it keeps as much of the soil moist as possible.

As far as lights I used "light of america" brand "white" energy savers the twisted ones that use 32 watts and put out as much light as a 150 watt bulb. I am uncertain of the color "soft white or what color" but they are at walmart and you cant miss them. the packaging is yellow and blue. i believe any of the higher watt bulbs would suffice. these are the ones i chose. make sure they put out at least 2000 lumens. more would be preferable but could make the grow space far to hot. The lights i used are between 6 and 7 dollars each at wall mart. Keep lights no more than 5 inches away from top of plants but no less than 2 inches to assure good plant growth and prevent burning.

As far as nutrients go I used standard peters 20 20 20 for vegging and peters super bloom 10 50 20 "i dont have the npk but it IS the peters super bloom nutrient" for flowering. The first week i went half strength for vegging, second week full strenth. when switching to bloom formula flush soil so plant can go to bloom. dont be afraid to use both ferts at a half and half ratio for a few weeks into flowering. it helps with nitrogen loss. then the same for blooming,one week half strength then full strength up until one week till harvest when i went straight to water. As far as a resevoir i used the glad disposable tupperware. they have blue lids. i cut a hole in the lid just big enough to fit about 1 inch of the pot into it and be stable. DO NOT FORGET TO FLUSH SOIL EVERY 3 WEEKS. then immediately back to nutes. this washes the excess salts from the soil but will cause no deficiencies because you immediately go back to nutes. cover the resevoir in something so light can not penetrate it because this will cause algea growth. then just fill the resevoirs as needed.

Do not veg for more than 3 weeks because you will run out of room in your box and the roots will be to large for the pot. this is only effective if you go two weeks veg to stabilize the clones then straight to 12/12 for flowering. Run lights at night to help with temp and use the days for your dark period. if possible leave door to the box open so it stays even cooler but only when lights are on.

Use fans to blow air in and out of box. blow air out of the top of the box to remove hot air and a fan low in the box to blow in cool air. make sure plants get hit by the air of the fan so that the stalks thicken and help keep the plant strong enough to hold the buds that will eventually weigh down your plant and could cause stem breakage.

Dont be afraid to use the fementing co2 idea either. i figure it cant hurt. Odor Will be a problem, especially deep into flowering but the alcohol scent from the co2 helps a little bit but not enough. The lingering scent of skunk will permeate through the room. lots of febreeze worked for me but it never eliminated the smell. Temperature WILL also be a problem. these lights heat up and can easily kill your crop if you do not pay attention. another way to help with the heat is to take a 1 liter bottle and freeze it. let it sit in the grow box while the lights are on and when they come off you can refreeze it. Oh one more thing, make sure that during the dark period that all holes are sealed. You cannot have any light going in the box. take your time and you will be rewarded. The resulting bud will be very airy and fluffy due to the light source and possible lack of enough light but it will still be potent if you have a potent strain.

Last edited by holefiller; 05-18-2007 at 02:16 AM..
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  #27    
Old 06-07-2007, 03:49 PM
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Hi, according to math and babygro, if I don't fuck up (which I haven't thus far in fact the girls look pretty good) I should harvest anywhere from 720-1440g based on 0.5 to 1.0 g/w. I'm using 2 1000 hps on 14 plants, I will be really content with 2 ps. Once this harvest is complete I'll have double the amount (27 plants) in the same area and wattage but will use smaller pots so they all fit. It will be interesting to see what yields more...
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  #28    
Old 03-04-2008, 08:53 PM
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  #29    
Old 03-04-2008, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babygro View Post
Not sure where you heard that from, most first time growers will get much less than 0.5g per watt for their first grow.

The best I've ever seen is about 0.95g per watt from a 600w HPS, experienced growers should be getting at least 0.5g per watt if they're getting less their not maximising their potential and if they're getting more they're doing something right.

There's a much more sophisticated system for calculating 'grow room efficiency' that does factor in the flowering time as well as lighting wattage -

Grow Room Efficiency Calculator

You need figures for -

Total light wattage
Total flowering time in days
Light cycle hours
Total yield in grams

For example. A 600w HPS system used on a 12/12 hourly cycle in flowering for 60 days which produces 20ozs (560g) of dry bud.

1) Divide total lamp wattage by 1000 to get Kw/h.
600w/1000 = 0.6.

2) Multiply this figure by the hours of the light cycle.
0.6 x 12 = 7.2

3) Multiply this figure by the number of days in flowering.
7.2 x 60 = 432

4) Now divide the gram yield figure by the kilowatt figure.
560g / 432 = 1.29. That's 1.29g per K/w

Experienced growers should be shooting for a GE (Garden Efficiency) rating of 1.0, so anything over 1.0 is very good going.
You know, I'm sure someone with a PHD would look at your formula and say "No, heres a better formula"....so many people here want to one up people with their better ideas....I for one follow the "Keep it simple, Stupid" program as much as possible.....The question was simple....how many grams per watt...you know what he meant....now just answer the question.....Like this, I used 250 watts and I got this many grams when I was done....we all know there are a thousand variables...Time..nutes..lights, how close..strain....on and on and on......Fuckin people annoy me sometimes....you are the one right now!!!!!
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  #30    
Old 03-04-2008, 09:16 PM
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I get a gram per watt....for the most part...
 

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