Quote:
Originally Posted by 1freezy 
I have been working slowly on a project like this for a couple months and I just found this post. I have 2 cabinets with 4 sections (2 a piece) for the flowering. All the plants will have suficiant light but 1 of the 4 flowering chambers will have a lot of added/extra light from all around. At what 2 week interval should the plants get the extra light. I know the whole time would be good but thats not an option.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1freezy
 Please anybody competent! |
a) Please don't expect nor demand instant answers from anyone. You won't get far. Patience! Nobody here is paid to answer your queries, myself included.
b) "suficiant" light?
Sounds like you're using fluoros. Fluoros emit low-intensity light. Sufficient for clones, seedlings and slow-vegging your mums, but not sufficient for flowering, at least if you want something other than sparse, fluffy buds. If you have different lighting in different phases, use your brightest lighting (remembering of course that
lumens don't add- 100x 1500lm CFLs are NOT brighter than any HPS) in wk6 and after.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BEEFCAK3
hey does anybody have any good ideas or good experiences with nutes? i need to buy some and have not choosen yet. my grow is soil....i was lookin into advance nutrients but my past experience with nutes is fry'd roots stunted plants so i gave up on that. i know i need a ph ppm pen and when it comes time to mix theres where i screw up any advice on this would be great thanks...
|
If you're planning on using hydro nutes, what's with using soil? Select a proper inert hydroponic medium for your style of grow.
If your past experience with nutes is fried plants, you're quite right- of COURSE you need a nute meter. It ain't the nutes, it's you! Moreover, you want to be fairly confident that there's NO nutrient value in whatever medium you use if you're using hydro nutes. You can't measure the nutrient strength contained in soil with your EC meter, but that nutrient value will be added to whatever strength of hydro nutes you add. Great way to burn plants.
Quote:
Originally Posted by We TaRdED
just get any hydroponic nute.... they all work!!!!
|
True. Nutes is nutes for the most part. Those from larger makers will be more consistent in quality.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmak40
as for nute burn you dont give them full strength til about weeks 4-6.
|
Depends on what you think 'full strength' is. Plants can handle 1400ppm @ 5.8 straight out of my clonebox, where they've gotten zero nutes since they were cut off the mums. I use the same 1400ppm nute mix for all my flowering plants, from day1 of flowering to harvest.
Quote:
Originally Posted by We TaRdED
ya, there are hydro organic nutes.... the reason i say hydro is to ensure you get all the needed micro nutrients also..
|
Any decent quality potting soil ought to contain enough organic NPK and (especially) micronutes to raise plants already (but will need augmentation several times before harvest). Not a good idea to use hydro nutes in soil- that nutrient strength will add to the strength of whatever nutes exist in the potting soil. If you must do this, use a nute mix no stronger than 1/4-1/2 the nute maker's recommended strength.
If you can buy potting soil, there's nothing stopping you from doing it correctly. Just buy proper inert media for hydroponics. DON'T use hydro nutes with soil. There's no advantage to using hydro nutes in soil as opposed to using good soluble fertilisers intended for soil- in fact, as said, there's plenty of
disadvantages.
This being a thread about a hydro op in the hydroponics/aeroponics section of this board, this will be the limit of my comments about soil.