Originally Posted by fatman7574

No lowering of EC in budding and no flushing.

Using intermittant medium pressure low flow mister heads in aero tubes I run only 0.3 EC from the just rooted stage and ramp up to 1.0 EC where the level remains until harvest. My bloom formulas is the same as the veg formula except with boosted magnesium via magnesium oxide, MonoPottasium Phosphate and chelated iron. I use no ammonium nitrate, no ammonium Phosphate or Phosphoric acid in my formulations nor do I use silica phosphate. I get adequate ammonium-N from other nutrient chemicals so as to limit to ammomium-N to no more than 5% of the total nitrogen content of the nutrient solution. I use sodium hydroxide to raise my pH. and nitric acid to lower my pH. I use aerated RODI water. As my RO water calcium level is zero I set my calcium level in my nutrient fomulation at about 60 ppm. The pH and conductivity and auto water top off is all automatic. I drain and replace nutrients weekly, mainyly because I get tired of testing the calcium level. I do not reduce the EC, once it is at 1.0 it stays at 1.0 until harvest. I am hoping soon to lower the EC even further once I switch to finer micron misters.

My drying is initially in a sealedvroom with room with CO2 enrichment with a dehumidifer set at 20% humidity. Then the product is put in cellophane bags unsealed in an airtight box with all air removed and replaced with CO2. Every two days the bags are opened and the product emptied onto cellophane sheets and a bit of shaping and trimming is done and the bags refilled but left unsealed. The bags are put back in the air tight box and the box again has all air removed by CO2 flooding. This continues for usually 14 days. At that time the products are cured enough to seal the cellophane bags in steel cans. Dogs can not smell through sealed steel cans. Resins do not stick to the cellophane as they do to plastic bags. Really. The product does not taste like chemicals or chlorophyl and the leaves are green. I always wear latex gloves.